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Elevation: 8,393 ft 2,558 m
GPS: 38.74196, -104.89827
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 938 total · 52/month
Shared By: Matt Sellick on Jun 14, 2024
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

This area sits beneath the sanctimonious reaches of The Martyr, Mt. Vigil, and Purgatory. The Gallery is an earthly paradise for us mortals who like to clip bolts, climb trad routes and lower off bolted anchors, and even go boulder. Here you will find modern sport, trad, and mixed protection routes from 5.5 to 5.12. Most of the rock is vertical to overhung and is better rock quality than nearby Hurricane Ridge.

This area is located on the next ridge up Old Stage from Hurricane Ridge and is directly below the Purgatory Wall.

This is a new and ever expanding climbing area. Please respect any red tape, and do not climb routes with red tape on the first bolt. Climbs have been diligently cleaned but still will certainly hold some small loose stones (particularly if you are venturing off route). All hardware is intended for loweoffs, not toproping.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive up Old Stage Road, and set your odometer when your tires hit dirt. Drive 4.4 miles, and park in a large pullout (see the photo) on the right. Please angle in when you park to allow maximum use of the parking area.

Follow the faint path starting behind the road sign, passing what looks like an old makeshift horse corral on your left. If you are heading to the Ernie Barnes Wall, you will hang a left before the corral. For the other walls, trend slightly right, passing a short wall somebody made by stacking rocks. Head downhill and right just past the rock wall, crossing two intermittent streams. You will then pick up a well worn climber's path with cairns. Follow this (easy walking), and you will be at the first climbs in 10 minutes after leaving the car. Please try to stay on the cairned path as much as possible to limit impact to this beautiful place.

The first wall you come to is the Installation Wall.  The Jo Mora Wall is located east of the Installation Wall and the Georgia O'Keefe wall is below the Installation Wall. See each page for directions.

64 Total Climbs

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Location: The Gallery Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Gallery

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
The Evolution of the Cowboy
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
The Broken Column
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Wyeth's Pig
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Pop Shop 2
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Buffalo Nickel
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
Carmel By the Sea
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 51
Lucky Strike
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Water Problem
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
End of the Trail
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Love and Watermelon
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Scratching A Twister
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 15
Safe Sex
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 20
Pop Shop 3
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 20
Radiant Baby
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
Roots
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Evolution of the Cowboy Jo Mora Wall
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Broken Column Installation Wall
 29
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Wyeth's Pig Installation Wall
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pop Shop 2 Installation Wall
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Buffalo Nickel Installation Wall
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Carmel By the Sea Jo Mora Wall
 16
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Lucky Strike Installation Wall
 51
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Water Problem Installation Wall
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
End of the Trail Installation Wall
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Love and Watermelon Installation Wall
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Scratching A Twister Jo Mora Wall
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Safe Sex Installation Wall
 15
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Pop Shop 3 Installation Wall
 20
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Radiant Baby Installation Wall
 20
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Roots Installation Wall
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Gallery »

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