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The Crag Next Door - Sport and Trad Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Crag Next Door - Sport and Trad

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Hobo's View S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bad But True T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Baywatch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bear, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Blood and Honey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Blood Donor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Brown Streak Boogie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Buckets for Day S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Character Ranch / Interrobang Project S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Coexist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Dick Flex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	DILLIGAF S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dream On S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Fat Lip S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Grapes of Wrath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Gun Show S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Hopium S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	If it Grows, it Goes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Indecisive S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Just Do it S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Knock Your Block Off S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Man Handle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Marco Polo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Mr. Humpty S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	One Knuckle Deep S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	One Moose Minimum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Owl Toe (Open Project) S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	Owl, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Peanut Gallery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pika-Chu S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Poacher Direct, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Poacher, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Polar Bear Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Purple Queen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Queen Bee S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Rai-Chu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Riff Raff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Soup Kitchen T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Strong Side S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Toe, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Topophilia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tough Guy Shot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Weasel, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Welcome Wagon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	What's Urs is Mine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	752 ft	229 m
GPS:	43.34153, -79.86107 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	513 total · 39/month
Shared By:	Liam Kirkpatrick on Nov 12, 2023 · Updates
Admins:	Dave Rone Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This crag offers a south-east facing exposure that enjoys a balance of sun and shade from the surrounding trees. However, be prepared for a lot of bugs in the summer months! The walls are made of limestone that is relatively fresh and unpolished, as the area has been developed recently. The bolting is generally good, but some anchors may be questionable, but workable. Compared to Nemo, this crag is smaller and less crowded, with some quality routes to explore.

Sub areas broken down on https://sendage.com/area/crag-next-door-on-canada

Bring a stick clip!!!

Getting There

You have two options for parking your car near the crag.

Eastern access is from Kerns Rd, Burlington, ON, Canada (43.3487618° N, -79.8624150° W) next to City View park. This option will require a longer walk (8 minutes) to the west side of the crag but offer more parking. Follow the Bruce Trail crossing Kearns Rd, trending left to stay near the cliff (43.3435989° N, -79.8610250° W). A single and short faint trail will lead to a decent with nylon cord tied to small trees. Proceed right (climbers left) at the bottom to enter the crag.

Western access is via the Bruce Trail access point on King Road, which is located at 1915–1921 King Rd, Waterdown, ON L8B 1W5, Canada (43.3379501° N, 79.8658392° W). This option will shorten your walk, but you'll have plenty of hikers parking near you too (two or three gravel parking spots and roadside parking). Follow the Bruce Trail trending right to stay near the cliff.

Once you are near the crag, look for one of 3 faint trails, with the outer two that lead to chains / nylon slings (43.3408670° N, -79.8625210° W) that will help you with a small down climb to the base of the crag with access to the bouldering area as well.

There is also a short V-shaped chimney that is in the middle ish of the crag that is a good access as well.

45 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Crag Next Door - Sport and Trad

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 5 ● Knock Your Block Off Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 6 ● DILLIGAF Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 6 ● Man Handle Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Just Do it Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 5 ● Tough Guy Shot Sport