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North Face Rock Climbing

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Routes in North Face

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Widi Azry S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Elevation:	7,581 ft	2,311 m
GPS:	31.77786, -6.06409 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	301 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Steven Lucarelli on Nov 2, 2022
Admins:	Angelique Brown, TJ Brumme Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The stunning north face of Taoujdad is probably the most popular wall in Taghia and for good reason. Long sustained routes on mostly good rock that stay shady all day long, draw climbers from all around the world to get a taste of this goodness. The route Crimson Rivers (Les Rivieres Pourpres) made popular by Alex Honnold as one of his top 10 frees solos, typically has a steady stream of climbers on it on most good weather days. But there are numerous other worthy routes from 10a to 13a. Some are fully bolted and others require a light rack of supplemental gear so plan accordingly. It is possible to climb any of these routes with a single 80m rope if you plan to top out and walk off (a 40m rappel is needed for this descent) but most parties will want to climb with either double ropes or a single rope and a tag line. One of the last two options is recommended since it will make bailing a lot easier (40+m pitches are common) and it also allows for the hauling of gear on harder routes where to follower won't want to carry a pack.

If you do decide to top out which is recommended for most routes, the descent from the summit is fairly straight forward. From the summit scramble east down a cairned path that leads to a rappel anchor. One 40m rappel will land you on the east ridge of Taoujdad and from there follow an obvious climbers trail east towards the gulley between Taoujdad and Oujdad. Take this gulley all the way back to Taghia village.

Getting There

The approach to the north face of Taoujdad is a little confusing when trying to navigate it for the first time. From Taghia village follow the obvious stream towards the mountain. Cross the stream before reaching the Wall of Springs on Ifrig and continue up the canyon to the toe of the west face of Taoujdad. From here stay high and scramble to your left into the narrow canyon ('Akka n Tafrawt). Stay high on the climbers right side of the canyon until you encounter a bolt with some webbing on it that is used to assist in making it past one exposed section. Continue walking and scrambling up the canyon following the path of least resistance. At some point you will come to a sketchy looking log bridge. Carefully cross this bridge (don't drop into the canyon) and climb some easy 5th class up and left. Continue up the canyon staying high on the right side once again. Around a corner you will come to the final obstacle with two options. You can either tunnel up through the large boulders which is pretty tight and has an exposed slippery exit with the help of a fixed rope. Or you can climb a bolted 5+ on the left side of the canyon that may be a little more convenient but takes longer. Sometimes if there is water in the canyon the 5+ way is the only option. Once on top of the large boulder obstruction it's easy flat walking to your intended route.