All Locations > Oregon > Northeast Oregon > Burnt River Canyon > French Gulch Buttress

North Face Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in North Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dale's Route? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	name unknown S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	name unknown S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	name unknown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	name unknown S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	name unknown S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	name unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	name unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	North Face S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Old Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Spire? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Elevation:	3,497 ft
GPS:	44.54844, -117.67389 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	832 total · 80/month
Shared By:	Bob Moseley on May 21, 2022
Admins:	Brennan Crellin, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick Page Updates (admin only)

Description

The awesome North Face of French Gulch Buttress is difficult to view in its entirety. There are 11 routes on this face, ten of which are clustered together on the main wall below a massive boulder at the head of the access gulley and one isolated route on a semi-detached spire a hundred feet below the main wall. The base is steep, but platforms have been constructed in a few key places. It’s doubtful that this face ever sees the sun. See boiseclimbs.com for a good schematic map of route locations on the north side of French Gulch Butt: North Face, Pig Face, and Mike’s Wall. And please update route info if you have knowledge of these climbs.

Getting There

About 50 yds up the French Gulch Trail from the creek crossing (and the trails to the South and East faces), look for a well-travelled trail that goes through some brush at first and then up a grassy slope toward a big Douglas-fir tree. Take this trail for several hundred feet upslope to the main North Face wall, passing Pig Face along the way. The first of the North Face climbs encountered is the Spire, an isolated bolted line up the face immediately right of the large cave. Continuing uphill past the Spire a bit, the trail starts to switchback, eventually cutting back directly to the first (and lowest) climb on the main wall of the North Face (the climb is also named North Face). A less-used trail to Mike’s Wall takes off from the main trail soon after the Spire.