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Areas in Burnt River Canyon

Astronomy Tower 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
French Gulch Slab 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
French Gulch Slab (West Side) 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Mother's Day Wall 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Timewave Wall 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Elevation: 3,122 ft
GPS: 44.552, -117.627 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: androo.daveass on Sep 18, 2009
Admins: Brennan Crellin, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
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Description

Climbing:
-The Burnt River Canyon has many limestone cliffs and spires. Some of these have been explored for their sport and trad climbing potential. There are currently around 100 established routes in the canyon, with potential for many more.
-Approaches are short and the sport climbs range from 30 to 100 feet tall, so one rope and a dozen draws is all you need. With routes ranging from 5.6 slabs to 5.13 overhangs, there is something for every climber. The majority of the routes are 5.10 to 5.11.
-Temperatures can be comfortable for climbing year-round, but summers do get hot. Winter and spring are best.

Amenities:
-There are no facilities or amenities of any kind in the Burnt River Canyon. Carry out what you carry in.
-Don’t leave your TP in camping areas or at the crag! Bury human waste and bury, burn, or pack out your paper.
-The water in the Burnt River may or may not be suitable for drinking, but there is no plumbing in the canyon, so bring your water with you.
-There are many scenic places to camp in throughout the canyon.

Safety:
-While the stone is high quality, this is not a high-traffic area, so loose rock does exist. When in doubt, wear a helmet.
-Rattlesnakes! Watch where you step, especially during the summer.
-The nearest hospital is in Baker City.

Guidebook:
-There is a very brief mention of the area in Rock Climbing Oregon by Bolf and Ruef.

Access:
-Most of the land in the Burnt River Canyon is public. However, there are a handful of private mining outfits that have federal mining claims within the canyon. You will see gold miners while climbing here. Mostly, the miners are retiree’s and are essentially panning for gold.
-Since they don’t make noise with heavy machinery, the biggest inconvenience miners can cause arises from their curiosity as to what exactly you may be doing with the rocks near or on their mining claim.
-Just saying ‘hello’ and politely talking with them about climbing goes a long way toward preserving access in this area.

Getting There

Driving directions:
From I-84 take
Exit 327 for Durkee
Drive to the stop sign at the junction with Vandecar Rd.
Turn West onto Vandecar Rd, toward Durkee. Drive .5 mile through town.
Cross RR tracks. At the stop sign, turn right onto Old Highway 30.
After 1.5 miles, turn left (West) onto Burnt River Canyon Lane.
Drive 11 miles until you see the first high-quality limestone on your right (French Gultch).

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Burnt River Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Old lady H
Boise, Idaho
Old lady H   Boise, Idaho
Nice area. We only climbed Mother's Day wall, but checked out some of the other bits. Saw my first bighorn sheep, too! Don't know the actual elevation, but high enough to be a bit cooler. Lots of different orientations, so it should be easy to chase sun/shade here. Aug 8, 2016
TimmDe  
Hey a buddy and I are headed here this weekend and would love if any locals would meet up and show us around a little. PM if ya think ya can come out. Looking for easy 12s hard 11s in the area.

This is very last minute and dont expect to much but hope to see yall out there crushin! Aug 8, 2014
There is a limited route guide on boiseclimbs.com. Go to the Other Areas tab and you will find some route info. Jan 31, 2012
Nathan Bell
La Grande, Oregon
Nathan Bell   La Grande, Oregon
I have been here four times now and every time I find more routes hidden away that I did not know about before. Anyone know of, or know how to get ahold of, a guide for this place? I don't even care if it is hand drawn on a napkin. If however I just need to be adventurous and find all the routes myself then so be it. Nov 26, 2011
Kenny Thompson
Cottage grove oregon
Kenny Thompson   Cottage grove oregon
any chance of climbing here in winter? Nov 27, 2010
That mother's day wall looks great!

Nice write-up Andy. May 16, 2010
Billcoe  
Andy, your layout of the Burnt River area looks fantastic. Sh*t - it seems clear, easy to read and understandable even for me!

Kudos, congrats and good job dude! Jan 5, 2010

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