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Baylor's Head Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Baylor's Head

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ear Wax T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Rhinoplasty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Scar, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Tear Drop T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Elevation:	6,225 ft	1,897 m
GPS:	32.38465, -106.58479 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	964 total · 30/month
Shared By:	Mike Hoskins on Apr 10, 2022
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details

Description

This rock formation, which looks like the profile of a head, faces south about 2.4 miles up the Baylor Canyon Trail (westside approach). It gets later morning and afternoon sun, so is best climbed early in the day or during the colder months. The longest route (Tear Drop), which climbs the middle of the rock, is approximately 200 feet long and the shortest route (Ear Wax) is about 35 feet long. The rock has an east and westside walk-up for setting anchors to belay from the top, or to walk-off after climbing various routes.

Getting There

Park at the Baylor Canyon Westside parking and follow the trail up towards the pass. The trail is well established (one of the best in the Organ Mountains), gradual, and easy to follow. After about half a mile you will see the rock formation in the distance up the canyon. The Baylor Canyon trail runs just south of the formation and there are two good cut over points where you leave the main trail to get to the rock formation.

The first (red line in the picture), at about 2.2 miles up the Baylor Canyon trail, takes you up and around the west side of the formation where you will see the Ear Wax route, as well as the 3rd class walkup route called the Ear Canal. If you take the Ear Canal walkup you can go straight up to the very top of the formation (past a couple of large bushes) - which allows you to walk to the top of the eastern most routes (The Scar). You can also turn hard right just before those Large Bushes to get to a shelf that sits above the 1st pitch of most of the routes. This shelf starts above the Ear Wax route and continues east to a Large Tree called the Eyebrow Tree, and then continues east (decreasing in elevation) to the top of the Tear Drop 1st pitch, and then continues east around the rest of the formation.

The second path to get to the rock from the Baylor Canyon Trail cuts over about 0.2 miles past the first cut over and leads you to base of the formation to access the start of the longer routes, including Tear Drop. After your day of climbing the fastest return is a walkoff down the Ear Canal and a return via the first cutover described above.