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Loiterland Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Loiterland

L › R R › L A › Z

	Better Than Jail Time S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Black Streak TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Direct Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Goldbar Center TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Goldbar Left S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Goldbar Left Edge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Goldbar Right S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Golddigger T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Jedi Master S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Junk Store Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Snowstorm Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Stone Master T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Un-yun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unbeknownst T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Uncharacteristically Characteristic T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Uncola, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unforgiven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unfulfilled T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Unknowable T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Unreliable T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Unresolved T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Unspeakable T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Elevation:	7,153 ft	2,180 m
GPS:	37.31071, -107.88266 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,814 total · 156/month
Shared By:	David Kozak on Feb 8, 2022
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This series of essentially abandoned, seldom-if-ever-climbed crags, have a mostly southeast exposure. Despite being mentioned in Tim Kuss' guidebook, and perhaps because of Tim's characterization of the area (which I largely agree with), the routes have never attracted attention beyond the first ascents. The first ascents were accomplished approximately 20+ years ago prior to Sailing Hawks access issues being resolved with the creation of Dalla Mountain Park, aka Sailing Hawks. The routes were established using various tactics. In many cases, there is a minimalist use of bolts, and in other cases some routes are essentially sport routes. While Loiterland was intended to be a "trad area", after climbing many of these routes years ago, and repeating some of them more recently, I think a better characterization of Loiterland is that it as a very poorly bolted sport area rather than a trad area supplemented with bolts.

Loiterland has four more-or-less distinct sectors. The routes are a mix of bolts supplemented with trad gear, or pure sport routes. With generally ok to good rock quality, Loiterland is a bit of a hidden gem and a good addition to the Durango climbing lineup.

Due to its historical obscurity (it's literally a stone's throw from The Cube), there are no established trails to speak of beneath and between the sectors. As a general rule, the golden and black rock is of good quality. The whitish rock is poor to OK. Many routes have fun features and the climbing is typically on slabs to vertical to overhanging faces. There are a few climbs with crack features. As with all climbing on Dakota Sandstone, DO NOT climb after a rain. Give the rock 24 hours to dry off please. FYI, on advice of a Mt Project administrator, I added names to a few routes that were unnamed or just unknown to me.

Last, I plan to upgrade bolts on several of the routes and to install proper bolted anchors. Here is an up-to-date (November 1, 2022) list of routes that have been modernized:

Goldbar Left Edge, 5.8.

Goldbar Left, 5.11a.

Goldbar Right, 5.10a.

Better Than Jail Time, 5.9+.

Getting There

Use the standard approach to either the Warmup Boulder or The Cube. The Goldbar sector is directly behind and above The Cube. If interest in climbing these crags increases, and with some forethought, perhaps a climber's trial can be established.