The Moondial Rock Climbing

NOTE: THE APPROACH HAS CHANGED. Do not go up the gulley. 

Steep sport climbing, much of which stays dry in the rain. Consistent shade, diverse and unique features, and high-friction rock (brecciated rhyolitic tuff). The main logistical challenge, besides the approach, is the ledge system to get to the routes. Ample anchors and handlines make it safe and convenient, like the "sun deck" but with no sun. Don't forget that you're at height: stay clipped in whenever possible. Not dog friendly or kid friendly. For climbing under 5.12, other areas are going to have better and more to offer.

Will update with more info soon. This is a recent burn area: expect dirt, ash, moss, loose rock, falling trees, erosion, etc. Bring a helmet, and some kind of tether for the handlines on ledges. bring brushes. use at your own risk. Visually inspect the approach lines before committing to them, scramble carefully.

-Please only clean holds you want to use. The lichen is nice to look at, survived a total firestorm, and may be older than any of us.

Everything here is a work in progress.

Routes described counter-clockwise from E ridge, or sorted L-R when looking at the N face.

-Glue-ins are the safest and longest lasting type of bolt, especially in this kind of rock, despite sometimes being hard to see or looking dirty due to the effort to minimize visual impact. Aluminum permadraw carabiners will be replaced with steel carabiners if certain routes see more traffic (unlikely for a number of reasons).  Lathe and Never Forever already have some steel.

-Smith grades aren't fair to apply outside the park and they don't apply here.

-On the partly bolted/partly cleaned projects, if you see threaded lag bolts with plated steel hangers, they are likely temporary/exploratory positioning bolts for aiding and cleaning and should not be trusted, whipped on, etc. They will be replaced with gluieins as those routes are finished up. These lines are in grey in the topo photos, in case you see lonely bolts and wonder which route they're on.

-Open projects are posted because they're good to go. The grades are just ballpark guesses, in some cases there are moves or sections that have yet to go. If it's not posted, assume that it's closed and/or not fully cleaned or equipped. 

-Please, don't do anything to threaten access. Follow all the rules on the sign, photo below. Feel free to contact me if you're interested in helping out or would like more information.