Orbital Arete (NW Ridge)
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Merritt Bros 2022|
|Page Views:||213 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||JD Merritt on Jul 24, 2022 · Updates|
|Admins:||Kristin Tippey, Nate Ball, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick|
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Private land info on the sign at the gate (photo added).
No access in high fire danger.
Significant hazards from falling trees, erosion, etc.
Named for the twin "eye socket" features on the 2nd pitch.
P1: 10b. 90', 11bs. Distinct crux, good holds. Equipped with sport lowers and can be done as a single pitch. Spacious belay ledge.
P2: 10c. 75', 9bs. Orbital Arete. Great arete climbing throughout. Many engaging cruxes, great position and movement. Ends at a good belay ledge at the apex of the ridge from glue-ins, anchor positioned for belaying up rather than lowering off.
P3: 5.6. 75', 4bs. Airsick Arete. Absolutely worth continuing for the exposure and the views. Belay from summit.
Optionally rap to the notch and continue to the 2nd tower, P4, 5.4, then walk off.
Start at the foot of the west ridge. From the approach gulley, go up the lines toward the tree ~100 feet up, then use the ropes to tension traverse right to the toe of the buttress.
Can definitely make it from the summit to the NE cave ledge lines in one rap with a 70m, and probably to the gulley. Would like to test with a 60m, may be close, comment if you check. Knot the ends. Can alternately rap toward the 2nd tower, climb P4 and walk down, or rap back down the route with three 60m raps.