All Locations > Oregon > Willamette Valley > Cane Creek > Moondial

Orbital Arete (NW Ridge)

Name: Orbital Arete (NW Ridge)
Rating: 4.0

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in The Moondial

L › R R › L A › Z

	Airsick (NW Ridge Right, open project) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Black Snow S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dependent Origination S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Direct roof extension (open project) S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Edgelord (open project) S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Lathe of Heaven, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Left Hand of Darkness, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Look to Windward (Open project) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Moondogs (Open project) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	NAJF Left Direct Start S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Neon Gray S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Never Forever S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	not a lot, just forever S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Orbital Arete (NW Ridge) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pale Fire S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Pale King (open project), The S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	SE Ridge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	SHC Right (open project) S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Spontaneous Human Combustion S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Surface Detail S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Syzygy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Type:	Sport, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches
FA:	Merritt Bros 2022
Page Views:	213 total · 21/month
Shared By:	JD Merritt on Jul 24, 2022 · Updates
Admins:	Kristin Tippey, Nate Ball, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Private Logging Land, Burn Area: don't block the gate, don't interfere with salvage logging. Read the signs Details

Logging land on approach road, parts of the crag are on public, BLM land.

Private land info on the sign at the gate (photo added).

No access in high fire danger.

Significant hazards from falling trees, erosion, etc.

Description

Named for the twin "eye socket" features on the 2nd pitch.

P1: 10b. 90', 11bs. Distinct crux, good holds. Equipped with sport lowers and can be done as a single pitch. Spacious belay ledge.

P2: 10c. 75', 9bs. Orbital Arete. Great arete climbing throughout. Many engaging cruxes, great position and movement. Ends at a good belay ledge at the apex of the ridge from glue-ins, anchor positioned for belaying up rather than lowering off.

P3: 5.6. 75', 4bs. Airsick Arete. Absolutely worth continuing for the exposure and the views. Belay from summit.

Optionally rap to the notch and continue to the 2nd tower, P4, 5.4, then walk off.

Location

Start at the foot of the west ridge. From the approach gulley, go up the lines toward the tree ~100 feet up, then use the ropes to tension traverse right to the toe of the buttress.

Protection

Glue-in bolts

Descent

Can definitely make it from the summit to the NE cave ledge lines in one rap with a 70m, and probably to the gulley. Would like to test with a 60m, may be close, comment if you check. Knot the ends. Can alternately rap toward the 2nd tower, climb P4 and walk down, or rap back down the route with three 60m raps.