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The Enigmas Rock Climbing
Routes in The Enigmas
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Lex Loci S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Recreant, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Viva La Figa S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
| Elevation: | 6,374 ft | 1,943 m |
| GPS: |
39.93217, -105.28539 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 2,381 total · 37/month | |
| Shared By: | j wharton on Dec 8, 2020 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a very secluded area in a hidden gully high on the east ledges. Home to three high quality "sport" routes, all developed by Matt Lavender in the late '80s, this area is deserving of more attention, either as a destination by itself, or as an addition to any Redgarden route. It is north-facing and shady but completely protected from any wind, so it's possible to climb here in a wide range of conditions.
Although the bolts look to be in good shape, Matt encourages anyone interested in replacing the bolts, or moving them into more "modern" locations, to do so. As is, expect older hardware and "sporty" bolting typical of 1980s sport climbing.
There may be potential for another route or two in the area, particularly to the right of Lex Loci, and perhaps on the impressive block and cave feature above.
Getting There
The Enigmas are located in the deep gully along the northeast edge of Lumpe Tower. There are three equally reasonable approaches. The first two options probably take twenty to thirty minutes from the bridge at a casual pace.
1. Hike up towards the east ledges below Wind Tower and Hawk-Eagle Ridge, but when the east ledges turns 4th Class, via a short steep step on the left, continue straight up the gully and slabs above on 4th and low 5th Class terrain. As you reach bushy ledges and trees, trend left towards the highest, largest pine tree, and continue scrambling up a narrow gully to find the Enigmas (Levin features a photo of the option in his standard setting guidebook).
2. Reverse the standard east ledges descent. At a point approximately 200' above the scramble out to the top of the Naked Edge, and 50' above the flat area above Ruper, head north through a notch and over some boulders to find a hidden rap anchor and red fixed line. Rap down this 100.' Then scramble up another 200' to the west up the gully to the base of the routes.
3. Climb any route on the The Redgarden Wall, and follow option #2.
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