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Otmar's Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Otmar's Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	General Buttnaked T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Matka, Desno (Right) Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Novogodishna (New Year Route) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c R
	Panchen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Veteranski T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	1,186 ft	361 m
GPS:	41.95116, 21.30121 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	1,727 total · 26/month
Shared By:	Nathan Fry on Sep 13, 2020
Admins:	Steven Lucarelli Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Otmar's Rock is the large peak across from the St. Andrew Church, kayak, rental, and restaurant in Matka Canyon. The formation is limestone and is surprisingly solid relative to the other peaks in the area, although there are still plenty of loose rocks to give climbing on Otmar's an alpine feel. The routes on Otmar's are anywhere from 3-4 pitches of "serious" climbing, with a couple of pitches of lower 5th class to reach the top of the peak. Protection is generally from pitons, augmented with a single rack of cams and nuts for routes with cracks.

Getting There

Otmar's is located in Matka Canyon, about a 20 minute ride west of Skopje. The most direct option is to book a taxi to and from the canyon - generally about 1400 denar ($30) for the round trip. Given parking issues in the canyon, having a taxi pickup and dropoff is really convenient.

Once in the canyon, there are several options for reaching Otmar's. Option 1 is to walk down the tourist trail to the boat tour pier and pay the boat operators 50 denar to bring you across the lake. The boat operator deposits you at the bottom of a trail that heads up to the St. Nikola monastery. Head up the trail until you see a clear talus field on your left. Go directly across the talus field to the base of Otmar's Rock. Option 2 is to cross the bridge at the beginning of the tourist trail (near the kayak course) and walk up the trail to St. Nikola monastery (30 minute hike). From the monastery, hike downhill to the aforementioned talus field (now on your right) and head over to the base of Otmar's. Option 3 is to convince the dam guard to let you walk across the Matka dam to the base of the New Year route. There is a trail that goes up to St. Nikola from here, too, so you can always head up the trail if you decide not to do the New Year route. Option 3 is most direct if you are parked in the upper Matka lot and don't want to pay for a boat.

If you pass through the St. Nikola monastery, you can ask the caretaker to stash your packs and extra gear while you climb.

Descent for the routes that top out on the ridge is to walk right (east) along the ridge until you find a small trail that leads down to the St. Nikola monastery. Scramble down to the monastery and, if you left your packs there, you're ready to go. There is a spring there for filling up water and plenty of picnic tables and shade for rest. Return back down whichever trail you took up.