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Orphan Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Orphan Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bilbo's Great Adventure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crazy Annie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Friday's Fandango S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Jacob's Ladder A1
	Maniac Minds S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Saturday's Tango S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Elevation:	2,374 ft
GPS:	43.21468, -123.57432 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,384 total · 54/month
Shared By:	gso Orton on Oct 21, 2019
Admins:	Nate Ball, Micah Klesick Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: PERMIT REQUIRED Details

WALK-IN PERMITS
Permit sales start June 23rd at 7pm
$100 each
Permit Term: August 1 – July 23 of following year.
recreation.weyerhaeuser.com…
This permit covers Non-Motorized walk-in access to the Coos Bay Millicoma Tree Farm, including the Callahans climbing area west of Roseburg, Oregon.
When parking on Touchstone Rd, do not block the school bus turnaround and be respectful of all neighbors. As private timberland, climber compliance with the permit system is critical for Access Fund and SW Oregon Climbers Coalition to explore future improved access with Weyerhaeuser, such as a recreational lease.

Description

Orphan Rock is now in the opening of a large clear-cut. It sits 30 feet below the ridge road and uphill of Inca Rock. There are fantastic views from the rock of the valley below. However does not get climbed much since access has been restricted. The first ascent of Orphan was Jacob's Ladder (A1) made by Harold Hall and Tim Kosderka (Weyerhaeuser Forester) in 1989 and has yet to be freed. Currently there are six established routes on the Orphan range from 5.9 to 5.11b and 35 to 150 feet in length. Bolts are stainless steel and in good shape but the routes themselves predictably are in need of TLC and currently only suitable for dry summer climbing. A full description of the area can be found in Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2, Umpqua, Orton 2007:152-154.

Getting There

Orphan Rock is just below and in view of the road. It is also within the clear-cut. Great open view now but the trails are pretty much wiped out. Easiest approach is by bike with a walk-in permit or by road with a drive-in permit.