|GPS:||43.208, -123.565 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||gso Orton on Oct 15, 2008|
Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
History (Admin Only): Nate Ball handled an improvement for this area Mar 24, 2019 View all 7
Nate Ball approved this area May 15, 2019
Nate Ball edited this area Sep 11, 2019
Nate Ball approved "Description" Sep 23, 2019
Nate Ball approved "Description" Dec 20, 2019
Nate Ball approved "Description" Apr 11, 2020
Nate Ball approved "Description" May 27, 2020
Permit sales start May 31
150 permits will be available
Permit Term: August 1 – July 23 of following year.
This permit covers Non-Motorized walk-in access to the Coos Bay Millicoma Tree Farm, including the Callahans climbing area west of Roseburg, Oregon.
When parking on Touchstone Rd, do not block the school bus turnaround and be respectful of all neighbors. As private timberland, climber compliance with the permit system is critical for Access Fund and SW Oregon Climbers Coalition to explore future improved access with Weyerhaeuser, such as a recreational lease.
Understanding the origins of the Tyee formation is still in its infancy. Pre-tectonic theories favored sediments from Klamath Mountain sources or ancient mountains once west of Coos Bay depositing into a high basin that is now exposed as high ridges through erosional processes (Snavely et al. 1964). More recently with an understanding of tectonics and the mineralogy of the Tyee Formation it appears possible that they formed from Southwest Idaho batholith sediments (Heller et al. 1985) carried by a prehistoric (Eocene) river that deposited in a deep sediment basin that was later uplifted to their current position and exposed through massive landslides and erosion.
Perhaps the best advise for anyone wishing to climb at the Callahans for the first time is to go with someone who knows the area and its trails. The climbing area is within Weyerhaeuser's 209,000 acre Millicoma Tree Farm which stretches from Callahan Ridges west to Coos Bay. Weyerhaeuser sells both road access permits ($350 per year) and walk-in access permits ($75 per year). Currently the primary access into the climbing area is by way of a climber's trail from a gate at the end of Touchstone Road. Access from Touchstone Road is by way of a 1.25-mile trail that ties into a system of trails that thread across the upper third of the ridge. The local communities of Roseburg, Melrose, and Lookingglass stand to benefit most from open recreational access to this climbing area. Yet, approaches to purchase the climbing area by local philanthropic interests have been unproductive. A significant loss to the local tourism economy.
Many of these trails have become obscured through lack of maintenance or completely wiped out by recent logging. Perhaps as much as a third of the climbing area has been clear-cut which has obliterated those portions of the trails, making access to climbs in the clear-cut more adventurous. All but the most used trails have fallen into disrepair. Those with a drive-in permits (almost no one) or biking with a walk-in permit (very few) can also access the area using the ridge road though the upper gate at the end of Callahan Road and drop down into the many climbing areas from the upper ridge. Trailheads from the ridge road have also become obscure and difficult to follow from lack of annual maintenance. Note: Log trucks have, and will take the right-of-way. Without open access, volunteer trail maintenance and cleanups strongly supported in the past have become difficult for local climbers to organize openly.
Currently the Callahans only sees sporadic use by climbers. Once popular but more remote areas (by trail) such as Fantasy Island and Orphan/Inca are now in need of TLC. Therefore, many of the once three to four star climbs have become dirty or mossy and now one to two star. With the exception of the Mind Planet/Turtle Rock area just about all bolting used quality stainless steel anchors that are still in great condition today. Plated anchors are beginning to show signs of wear, but appear to still be in good shape. All but the sunniest routes will need a little brushing if you are the first to climb at the beginning of each season. Brushes are available in a community gear box located at the base of Turtle Rock.
Guide: Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Volume 2: Umpqua. editor Greg Orton 2007.
There is also an alternative approach which leads you to the top of the Callahans instead of walking the roads. Refer to Umpqua guide or talk with someone who knows the area before going. Expect to encounter poison oak on your hike in.
For nearby camping and lodging plus current trail information you can contact Greg Orton.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Callahans
Days w Precip