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Lost Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Lost Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	3 Days and Nights S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Alpinista más ligero, paquete más pesado S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Alright Mr. Weed, I’m Ready for my Close-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Amen Corner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Cold Water for a Thirsty Soul S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Days of Yore (Mind Blower) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dharma Initiative, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Dick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dolomite colossus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Drillers Ball S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	End of an era S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Forget me not S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Found S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Get Me to the Chert on Time S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Get Your Feet Wet S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	If you must know (Magnificent) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Jump Puff Jump S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Leave the 99 S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Lone Survivor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lost Coin S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Lost my place S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lumberjack Crack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Missing Shirt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	MMX S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Orange Sky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Pray for me S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Push the Button S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Quarternail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Refridgearete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Scent of Protein, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Shade for Jonah S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Smoke Monster S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Spot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tercera Vez S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Testepiece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	This Ain’t How We Do Things in JeffCo S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tim in Tow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Tony Montana (pitch 1) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	8,481 ft	2,585 m
GPS:	44.14257, -107.23303 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	15,968 total · 235/month
Shared By:	FCJohn on Aug 12, 2019
Admins:	Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT Details

RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.

No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.

Description

First established in 2010, these routes were developed by over the past decade by Jon Dory, John Durkin, Greg Hand, and Paul Heyliger unless otherwise noted. Although there is evidence of recent development, the Lost Wall has not been heavily visited since 2011 & 2012, but it worthy of a visit in Mid Summer when wanting cooler and shady options on a hot day. These routes have not been climbed in some time, and have seen a minimal amount of comfortizing and traffic, so might climb a bit sharper and more au naturel than other manufactured routes as of late. They are being posted now in Summer 2019 so it does not appear we are violating the recent USFS regulations.

See-Say Wall: At the far left end of Lost Wall is a short wall of good rock capped by a ledge with a tree. Five routes exist on this panel.
Tim in Tow (11c)
Jump Puff Jump (10b), 8 bolts
Dick (10b), 7 bolts
Jane (10d), 8 bolts
Spot (10a), 7 bolts

North Buttress: Just right of See-Say is a group of routes centered around a tall panel of good rock. It is at the bottom of a relatively long downward section of trail.

The Scent of Protein (10b)
Get Me to the Chert on Time (5.8)
Dolomite colossus (10d)

Drillers Ball (10c), 11 bolts
The Dharma Initiative (11c)
Testepiece (12a), 14 bolts
Amen Corner (11a). 14 bolts

Central Wall: Existing routes begin just right of a large chimney.
Refridgearete (12b), 10 bolts
Orange Sky (12a), 9 bolts
End of an era (11b/c)
Polar Tips (11c), 9 bolts.
Alright Mr. Weed, I’m Ready for my Close-up (11a)
Quarternail (11a), 10 bolts
3 Days and Nights (11c/d), 13 bolts
Shade for Jonah (11c/d), 13 bolts
Lone Survivor (9), left corner past the small tree, 9 bolts
This Ain’t How We Do Things in JeffCo (10b/c), 9 bolts

Right Wall: These begin at the end of a slow rise in the trail before it levels out.
Alpinista más ligero, paquete más pesado (12a)
Tercera Vez (11b)
Pray for me (12a/b)
Lost Coin (10c/d), 14+ bolts
Leave the 99 (12b/c)
Lost my place (11b)
Forget me not (11a)
MMX (11c)
Found (5.7)

Alcove: Two routes are in the alcove just above and left of the Wall of Awesome. The tree that is now only a stump never bothered us, but someone disagreed.
Missing Shirt (10b), 11 bolts,
Get Your Feet Wet (11b/c), layback flake to bulge. 8 bolts.

Wall of Awesome. The name was coined by Mike Williams, and denotes the first huge wall with the lone pine tree on the ledge, and the obvious arching crack one encounters from the approach.

Smoke Monster (12a/b)
Days of Yore (10a),
Unknown (think this is a Mike Williams route that heads to upper wall).
If you must know (10a)
Push the Button (12c)
Cold Water for a Thirsty Soul (11a)

Many of the boulder problems in the talus to the right of Wall of Awesome were established by John Durkin in the Summers of 2007, 2008 & 2009.

Getting There

Approach as you would for The Ark. At the top of the final steep section (after the switchbacks) as you approach the cliff, look for a rock on the left side of the trail with cairns. Behind this is a typical Bighorns shelf that almost looks like a road. Follow this with just enough cairns to the north. You will approach a huge main wall just north of a massive boulder field, which contains the final half-dozen routes on the climbers right side of Lost Wall.