Vertical Camp Area Rock Climbing

Vertical Camp, or Alouadin Camp is a Soviet era alpine base which is privately owned and is an excellent place to access many of the sought-after climbs in the area, and lies at about 2500m. There are several cabins you can rent, a place to buy some simple meals, and places to camp for a fee. These services are available starting mid to late June or even later depending on when the trekking season gets going. You can also hire a donkey that can carry equipment up to Mutney lake, a good base camp for several of the taller peaks. You can arrange a pick-up with them as well when you organize things, the cost was about $20 each way in 2019 when I went. It's essential to speak Tajik or Russian, or have a translator.

A short hike up valley from the camp is Alouadin Lake, which is a better place to camp if you are staying at lower altitude, the lake is beautiful, probably the clearest water I've ever seen. To the south-east coming up from the lake is Polytechnica, and behind that Chapdara (the Left Wall, 5050m), both with big technical routes to the top. The NW face of Chapdara is extremely impressive. Alouadin pass and peak is north of the lake.

If you continue up the valley you will ascend a large moraine and eventually reach Mutney Lake which lies at about 3500m. There are numerous bivy sites in the area, with great access to the approaches for Chimtarga, Energia, Zamok, and Fagitor, as well as various passes used to access other parts of the range. Chimtarga and Energia are the impressive peaks to the west, Zamok a rocky looking peak to the east, and Fagitor is a rocky outcrop and small peak with an established alpine rock route that can be done in a day.

I also recommend disregarding the weather data that mountainproject provides on this page, it is extrapolated and not very accurate. Tajikistan typically has pleasant weather during the climbing season, but these are tall mountains, be prepared for serious mountain weather. You get many of the same mountain weather patterns you can expect elsewhere, I was there in late June and we had thunderstorms and sleet every afternoon.

This is a truly incredible area, with huge peaks and beautiful lakes. For a strong alpinist there are many options for new routes. If you visit the area, post information and share beta! There is currently very little available in english, but there is so much opportunity for climbing. Please take care of these areas and pack out your trash! There is no Tajik parks service, and no resources for clean up efforts. Do your part to reduce human impact, and set a good trend in protecting this area as it grows in popularity.

Come climb in Tajikistan!