Elevation: 9,899 ft
GPS: -49.27, -73.041 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,621 total · 190/month
Shared By: Priti Wright on Mar 1, 2019
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

Description

On the west shore of the Glaciar Rio Blanco and South of Aguja Poincenot (3002m), there are three granit peaks completing the FitzRoy range : Aguja Raphael (2482m), Aguja St-Exupery (2558m) and Aguja de la S (2335m - also known as Aguja Innominata). The main one (Aguja St-Exupery) takes its name from the French aviator called Antoine de St-Exupery (1900-1944), who was with Jean Mermoz and Henri Guillaumet, in charge of delivering mail all way down to Patagonia by plane. This was between 1929 and 1932 with the French airline company Aeropostale. The two summits north of Fitz Roy are actually called Aguja Mermoz and Aguja Guillaumet, dedicated to their memory too. Note that Antoine de St-Exupery was also famous as a writer, and his book "Le Petit Prince" (name given to a route on the West face) is still a best-seller in France.

These three needles are smaller climbs than its neighors Aguja Poincenot and Cerro Fitz Roy but they still offer difficulty, rock quality and an incredible atmosphere in the heart of Patagonia.

Getting There

Start from El Chalten. Climbs on the East Face start from Campamento Poincenot. Climbs on the West Face start from the Torre Valley, likely from Niponino

Routes

EAST FACE
o Normal route / East Pillar (800m - TD+) by S. Metzeltin, G. Buscaini, L. Condot, W. Romano & S. Sinigoi (Ita) in 1968
o South Pillar (800m ED) by H. Bärnthaler & E. Lidi (Austria) in 1987
o Le Petit Prince (700m ED) by J. Arpin, P. Batoux, G. Bouquet des Chaux, E. Pellissier & B. Robert (Fra) in 1995
WEST FACE
o Clair de Lune (750m ED-) by M. Giordani & S. Valentini (Italy) in 1987
o Northwest face (700 5.10b) by Sue Harrington & A. Kearney (USA) in 1988

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Aguja Saint-Exupery

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Last Gringos Standing
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 7
Chiaro di Luna (Claro de Luna)
Trad, Alpine 20 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Last Gringos Standing
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Chiaro di Luna (Claro de Luna)
 7
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 20 pitches
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