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Routes in Chalten Massif

East Face Glacier - Cerro Eléctrico T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Afannassief T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Austríaca T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brenner-Moschioni to Comesana-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cara Este - Mojón Rojo T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Chiaro di Luna (Claro de Luna) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Comesaña-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frader Pisafe, aka Salvaterra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Luna de Miel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Last Gringos Standing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Supercanaleta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI4 M5-6 PG13
Voie Des Benitiers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1
Whillans-Cochrane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI3 M4
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 15 pitches, Grade V
FA: Jesse Huey, Toby Grohne-March 2008
Page Views: 10,157 total, 102/month
Shared By: Neil Kauffman on Sep 30, 2009
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This is an excellent crack route with lots of quality hand jamming. The crux is a thin corner on pitch 6 which has not yet been freed due to icy cracks. The first 8 pitches are sustained 5.10 cracks linked together with a 5.9 black dike traverse between crack systems. The route then joins the Austrian Ridge for 300m to the summit.
See the American Alpine Journal 2008 for Jesse's description.

Location

Southeast face of Aguja St. Exupery, starting 100m below the Exupery-De La S notch in the major gully.

Protection

Doubles to 4", extra hand-sized pieces.

Photos

Owen Darrow
Garmisch,
Owen Darrow   Garmisch,
Patagonia is calling my name next fall/winter. I need to make some more money now... Dec 5, 2010
josh balt
Hill City South Dakota
josh balt   Hill City South Dakota
dang neil keep it up. This looks so rad. I think I want to go to Patagonia now. Feb 5, 2010