Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 15 pitches, Grade V
FA: Jesse Huey, Toby Grohne-March 2008
Page Views: 14,399 total · 77/month
Shared By: Neil Kauffman on Sep 30, 2009
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


10 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This is an excellent crack route with lots of quality hand jamming. The crux is a thin corner on pitch 6 which has not yet been freed due to icy cracks. The first 8 pitches are sustained 5.10 cracks linked together with a 5.9 black dike traverse between crack systems. The route then joins the Austrian Ridge for 300m to the summit.
See the American Alpine Journal 2008 for Jesse's description.

Location Suggest change

Southeast face of Aguja St. Exupery, starting 100m below the Exupery-De La S notch in the major gully.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles to 4", extra hand-sized pieces.

Photos

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