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Routes in Chalten Massif

Afannassief T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Austríaca T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow
Brenner-Moschioni to Comesana-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cara Este - Mojón Rojo T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Chiaro di Luna (Claro de Luna) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Comesaña-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Easy Snow
East Face Glacier - Cerro Eléctrico T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Frader Pisafe, aka Salvaterra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Granja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Easy Snow
La Luna de Miel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Last Gringos Standing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Supercanaleta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI4 M5-6 Steep Snow PG13
Voie Des Benitiers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1
Whillans-Cochrane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI3 M4
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 15 pitches, Grade V
FA: Jesse Huey, Toby Grohne-March 2008
Page Views: 10,589 total · 100/month
Shared By: Neil Kauffman on Sep 30, 2009
Admins: Tony Yeary, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is an excellent crack route with lots of quality hand jamming. The crux is a thin corner on pitch 6 which has not yet been freed due to icy cracks. The first 8 pitches are sustained 5.10 cracks linked together with a 5.9 black dike traverse between crack systems. The route then joins the Austrian Ridge for 300m to the summit.
See the American Alpine Journal 2008 for Jesse's description.

Location [Suggest Change]

Southeast face of Aguja St. Exupery, starting 100m below the Exupery-De La S notch in the major gully.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Doubles to 4", extra hand-sized pieces.

Photos

josh balt
Hill City South Dakota
josh balt   Hill City South Dakota
dang neil keep it up. This looks so rad. I think I want to go to Patagonia now. Feb 5, 2010
Owen Darrow
Garmisch,
Owen Darrow   Garmisch,
Patagonia is calling my name next fall/winter. I need to make some more money now... Dec 5, 2010

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