Elevation: 5,862 ft
GPS: 36.056, -104.362 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,335 total · 1,273/month
Shared By: Anus Herder on Feb 21, 2019 with improvements by Jason Halladay
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

The Roy climbing area is nestled deep in cattle ranching territory along the Canadian River valley in the North Eastern corner of New Mexico. The Roy climbing area is named after the eponymous small town just a short distance from the climbing areas.

Roy offers many superb boulder problems, sport climbs and even some trad climbs for those willing to venture a bit further than the average Roy climber. Located just next to Canadian River, which created this canyon as it cut through the Dakota sandstone. At first I was pretty reluctant to put anything on the internet, but with the release of the awesome New Mexico Bouldering Guidebook, the internet and forums/articles on this place I thought it was of good use.

Please tread lightly and respectfully. Right now land owners and the forest service are on good terms with climbers and climbing visitors must be on their best behavior when visiting this relatively new climbing destination. Please close all gates behind you, stay on established roads, drive slowly and heed all road closure signs.

Very minimal parking spots (1-2) exist at most of these areas so large groups are not recommended. Make sure to clean up after yourself. This means packing out your used toilet paper (and use Wag Bags please.) Stay on established trails and camp in existing campsites so we can all continue to recreate in this beautiful area.

The best times to climb at Roy are mid-fall to mid-spring, otherwise it will be just be too hot. Many contend going to Joe's or Hueco is a better option, with more established problems and bigger areas, and, although this may be true, Roy holds a small special place in an out-there, wild and special setting.

https://www.climbing.com/places/why-roy-new-mexico-is-americas-next-great-bouldering-destination/
https://www.patagonia.com/blog/2019/09/roy-new-mexico/

Getting There

From Colorado Springs or Albuquerque it's about 4 hours if you're driving. From Roy Drive about 10 miles north and look for a left hand gravel/dirt road with "Mills Canyon Campground" on it after ~5 miles on this road continue straight through the cattle gaurd and sign for Kiowa National Grasslands. Continue straight for Mills canyon or take the most left turn for Mesteño Bouldering.

Local Amenities

The nearby towns of Roy, Spring and Mosquero have a number of amenities worth visiting. Climbers passing through these towns can make a positive economic impact by stopping in and throwing down a few ducats.

Roy:
  • Ma Sally's Mercantile - Stocks climbing chalk, tape and copies of the New Mexico Bouldering guidebook. 
  • La Casita Bunkhouse - Lodging that sleeps 6. Teepees also available! 
  • The Inn at Roy - Four rooms available via AirBnB.
  • Harding County General Store - Locally owned grocery and general store for those forgotten food items. 
  • There's also a gas station, a New Mexican cafe/diner and an opening-soon bakery/cafe next to Ma Sally's
  • Beware, though, Sundays in Roy are dead. Nothing is open (but you can still fill up your gas tank.) 
SpringerMosquero:

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Classic Climbing Routes at Roy

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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