Roy Climbing

The Roy climbing area is nestled deep in cattle ranching territory along the Canadian River valley in the North Eastern corner of New Mexico. The Roy climbing area is named after the eponymous small town just a short distance from the climbing areas.

The area is managed by the Kiowa National Grasslands, a subsidiary of the Cibola National Forest. If you have any queries about climbing or camping here, or are curious about hazardous weather conditions, do not hesitate to phone them: (575) 374 9652. They are very friendly and would love to hear more from climbers. There is a new informational kiosk that has been installed at the entrance to the Mills Canyon area, at the Smokey the Bear sign. Check in here to see the latest updates.

Roy offers many superb boulder problems, sport climbs and even some trad climbs for those willing to venture a bit further than the average Roy climber. Located just next to Canadian River, which created this canyon as it cut through the Dakota sandstone. At first I was pretty reluctant to put anything on the internet, but with the release of the awesome New Mexico Bouldering Guidebook, the internet and forums/articles on this place I thought it was of good use. [update 2021: the guidebook is currently sold out in print but available as an app from Vertical Life]

Please tread lightly and respectfully. Right now land owners and the forest service are on good terms with climbers and climbing visitors must be on their best behavior when visiting this relatively new climbing destination. Please close all gates behind you, stay on established roads, drive slowly and heed all road closure signs. Make sure to clean up after yourself. This means packing out your used toilet paper (and use Wag Bags please.) Stay on established trails and camp in existing campsites so we can all continue to recreate in this beautiful area.

The best times to climb at Roy are mid-fall to mid-spring, otherwise it will be just be too hot. Many contend going to Joe's or Hueco is a better option, with more established problems and bigger areas, and, although this may be true, Roy holds a small special place in an out-there, wild and special setting.

Roy, NM Must Reads:

• The Climber's Guide to Bouldering in Roy, New Mexico (Outside magazine)
• Roy, New Mexico: America's Next Great Bouldering Destination (Climbing magazine)
• Roy, New Mexico (Patagonia)