Elevation: 5,862 ft
GPS: 36.056, -104.362 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 102,897 total · 2,609/month
Shared By: Anus Herder on Feb 21, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is can be easily damaged when recently wet. Details

Description

The Roy climbing area is nestled deep in cattle ranching territory along the Canadian River valley in the North Eastern corner of New Mexico. The Roy climbing area is named after the eponymous small town just a short distance from the climbing areas.

The area is managed by the Kiowa National Grasslands, a subsidiary of the Cibola National Forest. If you have any queries about climbing or camping here, or are curious about hazardous weather conditions, do not hesitate to phone them: (575) 374 9652. They are very friendly and would love to hear more from climbers. There is a new informational kiosk that has been installed at the entrance to the Mills Canyon area, at the Smokey the Bear sign. Check in here to see the latest updates.

Roy offers many superb boulder problems, sport climbs and even some trad climbs for those willing to venture a bit further than the average Roy climber. Located just next to Canadian River, which created this canyon as it cut through the Dakota sandstone. At first I was pretty reluctant to put anything on the internet, but with the release of the awesome New Mexico Bouldering Guidebook, the internet and forums/articles on this place I thought it was of good use. [update 2021: the guidebook is currently sold out in print but available as an app from Vertical Life]

Please tread lightly and respectfully. Right now land owners and the forest service are on good terms with climbers and climbing visitors must be on their best behavior when visiting this relatively new climbing destination. Please close all gates behind you, stay on established roads, drive slowly and heed all road closure signs. Make sure to clean up after yourself. This means packing out your used toilet paper (and use Wag Bags please.) Stay on established trails and camp in existing campsites so we can all continue to recreate in this beautiful area.

The best times to climb at Roy are mid-fall to mid-spring, otherwise it will be just be too hot. Many contend going to Joe's or Hueco is a better option, with more established problems and bigger areas, and, although this may be true, Roy holds a small special place in an out-there, wild and special setting.

Roy, NM Must Reads:

Getting There

From Colorado Springs or Albuquerque it's about 4 hours if you're driving. From Roy Drive about 10 miles north and look for a left hand gravel/dirt road with "Mills Canyon Campground" on it after ~5 miles on this road continue straight through the cattle guard and sign for Kiowa National Grasslands. Continue straight for Mills canyon or take the 45-degree left turn for Mesteño Canyon Bouldering (Upper Mesteño, Middle Mesteño, a.k.a. Jumbles).

Local Amenities

The nearby towns of Roy, Spring and Mosquero have a number of amenities worth visiting. Climbers passing through these towns can make a positive economic impact by stopping in and throwing down a few ducats.

Roy: [20 min drive south]

  • Ma Sally's Mercantile - Now offers groceries and a small tea room. They also sell chalk and Roy bouldering T shirts!
  • La Casita Bunkhouse - Lodging that sleeps 6. Teepees also available! 
  • The Inn at Roy - Four rooms available via AirBnB.
  • Harding County General Store - Locally owned grocery and general store for those forgotten food items. [Closed in 2020 but possibly may re-open at some point.]
  • There's also a gas station and an opening-soon bakery/cafe next to Ma Sally's
  • Beware, though, Sundays in Roy are dead. Nothing is open (but you can still fill up your gas tank.) 

Springer: [50 min drive north]

Mosquero: [40 min drive south]

136 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Roy

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 14
Long Ass
Boulder
V3 6A
 10
Gold Face
Boulder
V4 6B
 15
Nobody Gets Out of Roy Alive
Boulder
V4 6B
 21
Tree Beard
Boulder
V4 6B
 5
Center El Mushroom
Boulder
V4 6B
 5
Overexposed
Boulder
V5 6C
 10
Jewbacca
Boulder
V5-6 6C+
 30
Fun Bags
Boulder
V6- 7A
 28
Try Angular
Boulder
V6 7A
 11
The Cobra
Boulder
V6 7A
 14
Pumped Full of Roy
Boulder
V6 7A
 7
Flaming Liberty
Boulder
V6 7A
 10
Puddle Jumper
Boulder
V7- 7A+
 11
Ergonomicon
Boulder
V7 7A+
 5
Batman
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Long Ass Middle Mesteño > Ezekiel Wall Area > Long Ass
 14
V1 5 Boulder
Gold Face Middle Mesteño > Jumbles > Supercuts Boulder
 10
V3 6A Boulder
Nobody Gets Out of Roy Alive Upper Mesteño > Mega Roof
 15
V4 6B Boulder
Tree Beard Middle Mesteño > Jumbles > Treebeard Boulder
 21
V4 6B Boulder
Center El Mushroom Mills Canyon > Mushroom Boulder > W Face
 5
V4 6B Boulder
Overexposed Upper Mesteño > Keep
 5
V4 6B Boulder
Jewbacca Mills Canyon > First Streambed
 10
V5 6C Boulder
Fun Bags Middle Mesteño > Jumbles > Fun Bags Area
 30
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
Try Angular Middle Mesteño > Jumbles > Try Angular Area
 28
V6- 7A Boulder
The Cobra Mills Canyon > Rdside Attraction > Rdside Attraction Bou…
 11
V6 7A Boulder
Pumped Full of Roy Mills Canyon > Rdside Attraction > Flash Pance
 14
V6 7A Boulder
Flaming Liberty Mills Canyon > Second Streambed
 7
V6 7A Boulder
Puddle Jumper Middle Mesteño > Jumbles > Puddle Jumper
 10
V6 7A Boulder
Ergonomicon Upper Mesteño > Moss Grande Area > Ergonomic Boulder
 11
V7- 7A+ Boulder
Batman Upper Mesteño > Mega Roof
 5
V7 7A+ Boulder
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