Elevation: 5,807 ft
GPS: 36.03152, -104.33058
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 47,294 total · 1,066/month
Shared By: Kyle Smith on Oct 13, 2019
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is can be easily damaged when recently wet. Details
Access Issue: Road Warnings! Details

Description

Regarded as the main bouldering area in Roy, Middle Mesteño has a high concentration of climbs split into a few different areas. Most of the climbing happens on standalone boulders, with the occasional cliffband. Easy to find sun or shade depending on the day and conditions.

Getting There

[MP admin note:] Please do not drive on the roads to Mesteño Canyon when they're muddy. These roads are susceptible to major rutting and erosion when wet and increased traffic is doing major damage to these fragile roads. When the roads are muddy please consider bouldering at the zones in the main Mills Canyon area.  

The roads can have deep ruts in them and a low clearance vehicle, like a sedan, is not recommended. 

From the main Mills Canyon road as you enter the signed Kiowa National Grasslands, take a left turn onto the signed K-90 road (near the Smokey Bear sign.) Follow this road to a gate; pass through and be sure to close the gate after. The gates should always be closed regardless of how you found it. From here follow the signed K-90 road to the right. Please do NOT drive straight on the road signed as closed. See this map showing the closed road and the appropriate way to drive to the Mesteño Canyon areas.

Drive K-90 until you get to a sharp left turn signed as K-87. Follow this to another gate and pass through. Again, ensure this gate is closed. From here follow the right fork of the road for a couple of miles until you reach a crossroads. Go LEFT at this crossroad intersection for Upper & Middle Mesteño.

After a short distance, take a right for Middle Mesteño and drive to a small parking area at a wooden fence across the road. Park here, this is the trailhead.

From the parking area, walk east on the old road heading toward the canyon to find cairns that mark the trail down the hill. The trail is usually obvious down the hill, and takes about 5-10 minutes to get into the wash called the Jumbles, the main concentration of boulders in the area.

75 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Mesteño

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 19
Long Ass
Boulder
V3 6A
 5
Floozy
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 11
Gold Face
Boulder
V4 6B
 21
Thumbelina
Boulder
V4 6B
 32
Tree Beard
Boulder
V4 6B
 3
Waterloo
Boulder
V5 6C
 26
Welcome to the Jumble
Boulder
V6- 7A
 42
Fun Bags
Boulder
V6- 7A
 40
Try Angular
Boulder
V6 7A
 23
Puddle Jumper
Boulder
V6 7A
 3
Beautiful Pig
Boulder
V7-8 7B
 17
Slug
Boulder
V7-8 7B
 8
Destroy the Castle
Boulder
V8 7B
 5
A-Frame
Boulder
V10 7C+
 3
ROYGBIV
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Long Ass Ezekiel Wall Area > Long Ass
 19
V1 5 Boulder
Floozy Jumbles > Fun Bags Area
 5
V3 6A Boulder
Gold Face Jumbles > Supercuts Boulder
 11
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Thumbelina Jumbles > Thumbelina
 21
V4 6B Boulder
Tree Beard Jumbles > Treebeard Boulder
 32
V4 6B Boulder
Waterloo Jumbles > Fun Bags Area
 3
V4 6B Boulder
Welcome to the Jumble Jumbles > Fun Bags Area
 26
V5 6C Boulder
Fun Bags Jumbles > Fun Bags Area
 42
V6- 7A Boulder
Try Angular Jumbles > Try Angular Area
 40
V6- 7A Boulder
Puddle Jumper Jumbles > Puddle Jumper
 23
V6 7A Boulder
Beautiful Pig Above the Jumbles > Beautiful Pig
 3
V6 7A Boulder
Slug Jumbles > Treebeard Boulder
 17
V7-8 7B Boulder
Destroy the Castle Jumbles > Destroy the Castle
 8
V7-8 7B Boulder
A-Frame Jumbles > A-Frame Area
 5
V8 7B Boulder
ROYGBIV Ezekiel Wall Area > ROYGBIV
 3
V10 7C+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Middle Mesteño »

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