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Elevation: 5,829 ft 1,777 m
GPS: 36.0422, -104.32636
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,743 total · 316/month
Shared By: Kyle Smith on Oct 13, 2019
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown
Warning Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is can be easily damaged when recently wet. DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Road Warnings! DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Upper Mesteño is a somewhat narrow canyon with boulder problems mostly on walls and roofs on the sandstone bands that line the canyon, with fewer standalone boulders. Expect two main types of problems: long, very steep roof problems or highballs on tall, clean, slightly overhanging faces.

Getting There Suggest change

[MP admin note:] Please do not drive on the roads to Mesteño Canyon when they're muddy. These roads are susceptible to major rutting and erosion when wet. Increased traffic is doing major damage to these fragile roads. When the roads are muddy please consider bouldering at the zones in the main Mills Canyon area. If you still choose to drive out to the areas while the roads are muddy, STAY ON THE ROAD. Do not drive around muddy sections which results in road widening. 

The roads can have deep ruts in them and a low clearance vehicle, like a sedan, is not recommended. In the winter of 2023/2024, the FS put gravel down on many sections of the roads which has been very helpful. 

From the main Mills Canyon road as you enter the signed Kiowa National Grasslands, take a left turn onto the signed K-90 road south (near the Smokey Bear sign.) Follow this road to a cattleguard and continue rightwards on the signed K-90. Drive K-90 for a few minutes until you get to a sharp left turn signed as K-87. Follow this to another cattleguard and then follow rightwards for a couple of miles until you reach a crossroads. Go HARD LEFT (going slightly back on yourself) at this crossroad intersection for Upper & Middle Mesteño.See this map showing the closed road and the appropriate way to drive to the Mesteño Canyon areas.

After a short distance, take a left for Upper Mesteño (the road to the right goes to Middle Mesteño). Continue heading east until you reach the loop at the end of the road. This is the parking for Upper Mesteño.

From the parking area, find the cairns on the north side of the loop to follow the trail down the hill. Step over the barbed wire fence, and follow more cairns across a very cool streambed wash and up a hill. After cresting the hill, the trail splits. The left trail takes you to the World Wide area, and the right trail takes you to the roof areas.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Mesteño

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 16
Wet Socks
Boulder
V1 5
 18
Burned Feet
Boulder
V1+ 5
 20
Momo
Boulder
V1+ 5
 18
Jessie's Girl
Boulder
V3 6A
 8
Crenellation
Boulder
V4 6B
 20
Nobody Gets Out of Roy Alive
Boulder
V4 6B
 9
Sunspot
Boulder
V4 6B
 15
Hand Solo
Boulder
V4 6B
 7
Overexposed
Boulder
V5 6C
 8
Georgio Simon
Boulder
V5 6C
 9
Moss Neisley
Boulder
V7- 7A+
 19
Ergonomicon
Boulder
V7 7A+
 8
Dust Bowl
Boulder
V7 7A+
 10
Batman
Boulder
V9 7C
 6
Spanish Caravan
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wet Socks Keep
 16
V0 4 Boulder
Burned Feet Keep
 18
V1 5 Boulder
Momo Keep
 20
V1+ 5 Boulder
Jessie's Girl Keep
 18
V1+ 5 Boulder
Crenellation Keep
 8
V3 6A Boulder
Nobody Gets Out of Roy Alive Mega Roof
 20
V4 6B Boulder
Sunspot Solar Cave
 9
V4 6B Boulder
Hand Solo Moss Grande Area > Ergonomic Boulder
 15
V4 6B Boulder
Overexposed Keep
 7
V4 6B Boulder
Georgio Simon Moss Grande Area > Ergonomic Boulder
 8
V5 6C Boulder
Moss Neisley Moss Grande Area > Moss Grande
 9
V5 6C Boulder
Ergonomicon Moss Grande Area > Ergonomic Boulder
 19
V7- 7A+ Boulder
Dust Bowl Mega Roof
 8
V7 7A+ Boulder
Batman Mega Roof
 10
V7 7A+ Boulder
Spanish Caravan Big Fred's Cave
 6
V9 7C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Upper Mesteño »

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