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Elevation: 5,829 ft 1,777 m
GPS: 36.0422, -104.32637
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,580 total · 354/month
Shared By: Kyle Smith on Oct 13, 2019
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown
Warning Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is can be easily damaged when recently wet. DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Road Warnings! DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Upper Mesteño is a somewhat narrow canyon with boulder problems mostly on walls and roofs on the sandstone bands that line the canyon, with fewer standalone boulders. Expect two main types of problems: long, very steep roof problems or highballs on tall, clean, slightly overhanging faces.

Getting There Suggest change

[MP admin note:] Please do not drive on the roads to Mesteño Canyon when they're muddy. These roads are susceptible to major rutting and erosion when wet and increased traffic is doing major damage to these fragile roads. When the roads are muddy please consider bouldering at the zones in the main Mills Canyon area.  

The roads can have deep ruts in them and a low clearance vehicle, like a sedan, is not recommended. 

From the main Mills Canyon road as you enter the signed Kiowa National Grasslands, take a left turn onto the signed K-90 road (near the Smokey Bear sign.) Follow this road to a gate; pass through and be sure to close the gate after. The gates should always be closed regardless of how you found it. From here follow the signed K-90 road to the right. Please do NOT drive straight on the road signed as closed. See this map showing the closed road and the appropriate way to drive to the Mesteño Canyon areas.

Drive K-90 until you get to a sharp left turn signed as K-87. Follow this to another gate and pass through. Again, ensure this gate is closed. From here follow the right fork of the road for a couple of miles until you reach a crossroads. Go LEFT at this crossroad intersection for Upper & Middle Mesteño.

After a short distance, take a left for Upper Mesteño (the road to the right goes to Middle Mesteño). Continue heading east until you reach the loop at the end of the road. This is the parking for Upper Mesteño.

From the parking area, find the cairns on the north side of the loop to follow the trail down the hill. Step over the barbed wire fence, and follow more cairns across a very cool streambed wash and up a hill. After cresting the hill, the trail splits. The left trail takes you to the World Wide area, and the right trail takes you to the roof areas.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Mesteño

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 15
Wet Socks
Boulder
V1 5
 17
Burned Feet
Boulder
V1+ 5
 19
Momo
Boulder
V1+ 5
 17
Jessie's Girl
Boulder
V3 6A
 5
Crenellation
Boulder
V4 6B
 19
Nobody Gets Out of Roy Alive
Boulder
V4 6B
 9
Sunspot
Boulder
V4 6B
 15
Hand Solo
Boulder
V4 6B
 6
Overexposed
Boulder
V5 6C
 6
Georgio Simon
Boulder
V5 6C
 9
Moss Neisley
Boulder
V7- 7A+
 18
Ergonomicon
Boulder
V7 7A+
 8
Dust Bowl
Boulder
V7 7A+
 10
Batman
Boulder
V9 7C
 5
Spanish Caravan
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wet Socks Keep
 15
V0 4 Boulder
Burned Feet Keep
 17
V1 5 Boulder
Momo Keep
 19
V1+ 5 Boulder
Jessie's Girl Keep
 17
V1+ 5 Boulder
Crenellation Keep
 5
V3 6A Boulder
Nobody Gets Out of Roy Alive Mega Roof
 19
V4 6B Boulder
Sunspot Solar Cave
 9
V4 6B Boulder
Hand Solo Moss Grande Area > Ergonomic Boulder
 15
V4 6B Boulder
Overexposed Keep
 6
V4 6B Boulder
Georgio Simon Moss Grande Area > Ergonomic Boulder
 6
V5 6C Boulder
Moss Neisley Moss Grande Area > Moss Grande
 9
V5 6C Boulder
Ergonomicon Moss Grande Area > Ergonomic Boulder
 18
V7- 7A+ Boulder
Dust Bowl Mega Roof
 8
V7 7A+ Boulder
Batman Mega Roof
 10
V7 7A+ Boulder
Spanish Caravan Big Fred's Cave
 5
V9 7C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Upper Mesteño »

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