Elevation: 471 ft
GPS: 22.613, -83.713 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,084 total · 3,472/month
Shared By: Eric Leclerc on Jan 3, 2019
Admins: Eric Leclerc
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Description

Vinales is pretty much where rock climbing started in Cuba. The 2009 guidebook is only listing routes in this area.
As of 2018, there is a blitz for setting many routes in many sectors in the Holguin region.
I was told that a new guidebook is in the works but will probably not be ready for another two years.
This will allow more routes to be setup. Lets be patient!!!

Getting There

Vinales is about 2-3 hours from Havana. The best option is to show up at the Viazul bus terminal around 8:00 am and get a taxi collectivo.
It costs about 20 CUC per person to get to Vinales. You can ask your host in Vinales to reserve a taxi collectivo for you.
You can also purchase a bus ticket but it takes longer.

Climbing Guides

Why should you hire a climbing guide:
- You are traveling alone and need a partner.
- You and your group are not strong enough to lead past a certain level and would like to have your draws put up or have a top rope set up.
- The guides will make you discover new sectors/routes.
- They are great to assist you with climbing great multi-pitches.
- They know which routes to avoid due to the age of the bolts.

The guides in Vinales are very nice guys and will bring you everywhere you want. Find their coordinates at:
http://cubaclimbing.com/climbing/guides-meeting-climbers/

Re-Bolting

SInce rock climbing has started in Cuba, climbers from around the world have been bringing climbing gear including bolts and hangers.
There is now a way for you to help re-bolting routes in Cuba to keep all the routes safe. All money going to Bolts4Cuba is Titanium glue-ins.
Go to: fundly.com/bolts-for-cuba-c…

202 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vinales

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
El Repaso
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Ojos Carmelitas
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Chipojo
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Chipojito
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
El Fantasma de la Ópera
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
RM
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Mucho Pumpito
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Tetas de Mediterraneas
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Ranas Peluas
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
La Vida es Bella
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Cuando los Angeles Lloran
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 4
Saca Chispas
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 17
Wasp Factory
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Malanga Hasta La Muerte
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 3
Esplendidos
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
El Repaso Mogote del Valle > K- Ensenada de… > Punta Repaso
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ojos Carmelitas Mogote del Valle > K- Ensenada de… > Punta Repaso
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Chipojo Mogote del Valle > B- Cueva Larga > Right Wall
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chipojito Mogote del Valle > B- Cueva Larga > Right Wall
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
El Fantasma de la Ópera Mogote del Valle > D- Guajiro Ecologico
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
RM Mogote del Valle > N- Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Mucho Pumpito La Costanera
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Tetas de Mediterraneas Mogote del Valle > B- Cueva Larga > Right Wall
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ranas Peluas Mogote del Valle > D- Guajiro Ecologico
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
La Vida es Bella Mogote del Valle > D- Guajiro Ecologico
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Cuando los Angeles Lloran Mogote del Valle > O- Paredon De Josue
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Saca Chispas Mogote del Valle > N- Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 4
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Wasp Factory Mogote del Valle > N- Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 17
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Malanga Hasta La Muerte Mogote del Valle > N- Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Esplendidos Mogote del Valle > N- Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 3
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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