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Elevation: 471 ft
GPS: 22.6132, -83.7132
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Shared By: Eric Leclerc on Jan 3, 2019
Admins: Eric Leclerc

Description Suggest change

Vinales is pretty much where rock climbing started in Cuba. The 2009 guidebook is only listing routes in this area.
As of 2018, there is a blitz for setting many routes in many sectors in the Holguin region.
I was told that a new guidebook is in the works but will probably not be ready for another two years.
This will allow more routes to be setup. Lets be patient!!!

Getting There Suggest change

Vinales is about 2-3 hours from Havana. The best option is to show up at the Viazul bus terminal around 8:00 am and get a taxi collectivo.
It costs about 20 CUC per person to get to Vinales. You can ask your host in Vinales to reserve a taxi collectivo for you.
You can also purchase a bus ticket but it takes longer.

Climbing Guides

Suggest change
Why should you hire a climbing guide:
- You are traveling alone and need a partner.
- You and your group are not strong enough to lead past a certain level and would like to have your draws put up or have a top rope set up.
- The guides will make you discover new sectors/routes.
- They are great to assist you with climbing great multi-pitches.
- They know which routes to avoid due to the age of the bolts.

The guides in Vinales are very nice guys and will bring you everywhere you want. Find their coordinates at:
http://cubaclimbing.com/climbing/guides-meeting-climbers/

Re-Bolting

Suggest change
SInce rock climbing has started in Cuba, climbers from around the world have been bringing climbing gear including bolts and hangers.
There is now a way for you to help re-bolting routes in Cuba to keep all the routes safe. All money going to Bolts4Cuba is Titanium glue-ins.
Go to: fundly.com/bolts-for-cuba-c…

209 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Vinales Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Vinales

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
Ojos Carmelitas
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Me Llamo Lluma
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
Chipojo
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 31
Chipojito
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
El Fantasma de la Ópera
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 19
RM
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 16
Mucho Pumpito
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Tetas de Mediterraneas
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 18
Oculta Obsesion
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Pink Lady
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 13
Melodia Celestial
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Maybe
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 10
Moscow Mule
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 27
Wasp Factory
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 11
Malanga Hasta La Muerte
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ojos Carmelitas Mogote del Valle > 11. Ensenada de… > Punta Repaso
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Me Llamo Lluma El Palenque > Cueva de San Miguel
 13
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Chipojo Mogote del Valle > 02. Cueva Larga > Right Wall
 30
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chipojito Mogote del Valle > 02. Cueva Larga > Right Wall
 31
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
El Fantasma de la Ópera Mogote del Valle > 04. Guajiro Ecologico
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
RM Mogote del Valle > 15. Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 19
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Mucho Pumpito La Costanera
 16
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Tetas de Mediterraneas Mogote del Valle > 02. Cueva Larga > Right Wall
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Oculta Obsesion Mogote del Valle > 02. Cueva Larga > Left Wall
 18
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Pink Lady El Palenque > Cuba Libre Wall
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Melodia Celestial Mogote del Valle > 16. Paredon De Josue
 13
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Maybe Mogote del Valle > 02. Cueva Larga > Left Wall
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Moscow Mule El Palenque > Cuba Libre Wall
 10
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Wasp Factory Mogote del Valle > 15. Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 27
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Malanga Hasta La Muerte Mogote del Valle > 15. Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 11
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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