Elevation: 973 ft
GPS: 22.624, -83.719 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 29,266 total · 270/month
Shared By: Armando Menocal on Jun 2, 2010
Admins: Eric Leclerc
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Description

Mogote del Valle is one of three main areas that contain the majority of routes in Cuba. More than 70 percent of the routes in Valle de Viñales are on the walls of Mogote del Valle. The closest routes are about one kilometer from town, and the golden walls and caverns of Mogote del Valle can easily be seen from the town of Viñales.

Getting There

There are different ways to get to Mogote del Valle depending on which crag you want to get to.
The closest crag is about one kilometre from town and the furtest is about 1.5 km from town.
Go to each sub areas to get directions.

Recommended Climbs on Mogote del Valle

4s and 5s

El Asegurador Cuenta, 4+/5.8
En la Sombrita, 4+/5.8
El Repaso, 5/5.9
Ojos Carmelitas, 5+/5.10a
Torre Blanco, 5+/5.10a
Psicologia Infantil, 5+/5.10a
Mi Cusi, 5+/5.10a

6s

Pitú, 6a/5.10b
Chipojo, 6a/5.10b
Fantasta de la Ópera, 6a/5.10b
Guao, Guano y Espina, 6a/5.10b
La Cuchillita, 6a/5.10b
Calentando Baterías, 6a/5.10b
Tarentola, 6a+/5.10c
Filo de Cuchilla, 6a+/5.10c
Más Tarde, 6b+/5.11a
Aserejé, 6a+/5.10c
La Mulatisima, 6a+/5.10c
RM, 6a+/5.10c
Puro Cubano, 6b+ /5.11a (1st pitch)
Fernando's Hideaway, 6c/5.11b
Ana Banana, 6c/5.11c
Psicosis, 6c, 3 pitches/5.11c
Huevos Verdes con Jamón, 6c+/5.11c

7s

Summertime, 7a/5.11d
Calzo de Guagua, 7a/5.11d
Cuando los Angeles Lloran, 7a/5.11d
La Vida es Bella, 7a/5.11d
Catamarán, 7a+/5.12a
Brutus, 7a+/5.12a
Malanga Hasta la Muerta, 7b+/5.12c
Wasp Factory, 7b+/12c
Romeo y Regleta, 7b+/12c
Pichulina San, 7b+/12c
Medio Bandidos, 7b+/12c
Cuando el Mal es el Cagar, 7b+/12c
Amigos en el Tope, 7c/5.12d

8s

Hay Papito, 8a/5.13b
Esplendidos, 8a/5.13b
The Colony, 8a+/5.13c
One-Inch Punch, 8b+/5.14a

148 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mogote del Valle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Ojos Carmelitas
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
Chipojo
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Chipojito
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
El Fantasma de la Ópera
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
RM
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Totisnao
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Tetas de Mediterraneas
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Psicosis
Sport 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Ranas Peluas
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
La Vida es Bella
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Cuando los Angeles Lloran
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 5
Saca Chispas
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 18
Wasp Factory
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Malanga Hasta La Muerte
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 3
Espléndidos
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ojos Carmelitas K- Ensenada de… > Punta Repaso
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Chipojo B- Cueva Larga > Right Wall
 15
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chipojito B- Cueva Larga > Right Wall
 13
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
El Fantasma de la Ópera D- Guajiro Ecologico
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
RM N- Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Totisnao N- Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Tetas de Mediterraneas B- Cueva Larga > Right Wall
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Psicosis D- Guajiro Ecologico
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Ranas Peluas D- Guajiro Ecologico
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
La Vida es Bella D- Guajiro Ecologico
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Cuando los Angeles Lloran O- Paredon De Josue
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Saca Chispas N- Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 5
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Wasp Factory N- Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 18
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Malanga Hasta La Muerte N- Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Espléndidos N- Cueva Cabeza de Vaca
 3
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mogote del Valle »

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Photos

Mack Johnson
Silverdale, WA
Mack Johnson   Silverdale, WA
This a really cool place to climb. There are more routes of all grades being added steadily. We visited in early April and it was a bit hot for optimum cragging (80s), but we did fine by chasing shade in the mornings. I recommend our guide, Henry Sanchez. He is fun, knows the area like his own climbing pants, and is a very strong climber. He lives on the road to Raul's farm and can be reached on Facebook; very good investment at reasonable rates.
NOTE ON ANCHORS: the bolts are almost all solid and many are upgraded, but many anchors are done on a budget and are not equalized or set up for lowering. Bringing a few quicklinks and leaver biners will help upgrade anchors and ease your descent chores. Many belay anchors could use equalized chains. May 6, 2018