All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (18) Windy Peak

North Face Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in North Face

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	Midsummer Night Scheme T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Nightmare Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Of Mice And Men T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

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Elevation:	5,162 ft	1,573 m
GPS:	36.02223, -115.46789 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,508 total · 46/month
Shared By:	pooch on Aug 18, 2018
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Remote, choose your own adventures on an enormous broken wall which forms the left side of Mud Spring Canyon. No doubt about it, you will be alone out here.

The north side of Windy Peak is characterized by complex topography. The base of the face is a compact drainage known by some as Deathtrap Canyon. This is separated from the main Mud Springs Canyon drainage by the rocky ridge leading up to the Brimstone Towers. It is possible to ascend the entire Deathtrap Canyon to the summit ridge via third class scrambling and fairly nasty bushwhacking.

Once you have entered the bottom of Deathtrap, the main features of the wall become apparent. On the far left (east) is the buttress leading to Nightmare Point. The left section, bordered on the west by Midsummer Night Scheme features steep walls and discontinuous cracks. The forbidding central wall drops directly beneath the summit area. To the right of the big gully that is obvious from the approach is the lower buttress with routes such as Dream Within a Dream and Of Mice And Men.

Getting There

Do not park in the Black Velvet parking area, instead follow the road toward Black Velvet but turn left at the Windy Peak fork. Drive approx one mile and park in an area on the left where the road makes a hard left turn (primary parking area). Alternately, you can also park as for the south & east face routes as it shares the same descent.

Note that at the primary parking area you are adjacent to the confluence of two washes. Just to the north is the main wash (running east-west) draining Mud Springs Canyon. A smaller wash comes in from the south. Hike west across this smaller wash, then after another 100 yards, continue west across another small wash. Now wander west and slightly north to the top of a rounded ridge leading toward Windy Peak. There is a mountain bike trail in this area. This ridge is the highest terrain on the south side of the wash emerging from Mud Springs Canyon. Keep going west on the ridge (eventually leaving the bike trail) until the slope steepens at the red band at the base of Windy Peak. Contour to the right until you finally gain the streambed at the narrow entrance to Deathtrap Canyon.

Scramble up the canyon over boulders for a short distance. When feasible, climb out of the streambed on the left side of the canyon. When reasonably clear of the brush, move to the right to reach the main part of the wall, or up and left to the area by Nightmare Point. When you get to the toe of the lower buttress, you have a few choices. A 5.6 approach pitch goes up the left edge of the buttress to a loose gully. A slightly harder route is just to the right. To continue unroped, continue west and drop down to the steambed. Cross the stream and climb out on the right side of the canyon. Stay near the cliffs on the right side as you ascend. Do your best to avoid the brush. Eventually you are forced back into the streambed where a major ledge system comes in from the left (see photo). Hike left on this ledge to reach Midsummer Night Scheme, or go right on it to reach Dream within a Dream. If you have not had enough of the brush, you can continue up the canyon to Cat Nap or the Windy Peak summit.