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Routes in North Face
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Midsummer Night Scheme T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Nightmare Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Of Mice And Men T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 1100 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | April 5, 2015 Jeremy Devine and Sam Bishop |
| Page Views: | 884 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Devine on Apr 15, 2015 |
| Admins: | Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Fun and exciting climbing in a remote part of Red Rock. Reminiscent of Rainbow Buttress but with an even more remote feel. Some loose rock, but we tried to clean as much obvious choss as possible. Still worth the second trying to rip off loose holds on a couple pitches. Should actually clean up well with subsequent ascents. Worth doing if you've done a lot of the Red Rock adventure routes and want more!
Pitch 1. 30 meters up bulge to comfortable belay ledge. 5.4
Pitch 2. 45 meters up bulge in left, thin rps and 4 inch piece. 5.6
Pitch 3. 50 meters. Middle crack of 3 different ones. Belay on ledge on left. 3 and 4 inch pro for anchor. 5.7
Pitch 4. 15 meter micro pitch. Go up unprotected slab off belay. Belay from big crack on ledge. 3 to 4 inch pro for belay. 5.4
Move belay across large ledge system to the base of a low rock quality corner crack.
Pitch 5. 45 meters. Up through bad friable rock. Protects okay. Belay on large ledge. 5.9 PG-13
Pitch 6. 30 meters. Up and right to large second ledge without much veg directly below headwall. 5.6
Pitch 7. 60 meters. Run out start on good rock, pass through varnish on left using #3 cam in hueco for pro. Continue up through middle of headwall on best looking crack. Belay takes finger sized and smaller plus a .75 cam. 5.8
Pitch 8. Micro 5easy pitch to next large face.
Pitch 9. 60 meters. Cross gap using best looking crack. Start is 5.7. Cross into crack on left after 20 feet. Protects better than it looks. Becomes easy slab.
Pitch 10. 30 meters. 5.5 slab.
Scramble and micro 5.3 pitch to summit.
Pitch 1. 30 meters up bulge to comfortable belay ledge. 5.4
Pitch 2. 45 meters up bulge in left, thin rps and 4 inch piece. 5.6
Pitch 3. 50 meters. Middle crack of 3 different ones. Belay on ledge on left. 3 and 4 inch pro for anchor. 5.7
Pitch 4. 15 meter micro pitch. Go up unprotected slab off belay. Belay from big crack on ledge. 3 to 4 inch pro for belay. 5.4
Move belay across large ledge system to the base of a low rock quality corner crack.
Pitch 5. 45 meters. Up through bad friable rock. Protects okay. Belay on large ledge. 5.9 PG-13
Pitch 6. 30 meters. Up and right to large second ledge without much veg directly below headwall. 5.6
Pitch 7. 60 meters. Run out start on good rock, pass through varnish on left using #3 cam in hueco for pro. Continue up through middle of headwall on best looking crack. Belay takes finger sized and smaller plus a .75 cam. 5.8
Pitch 8. Micro 5easy pitch to next large face.
Pitch 9. 60 meters. Cross gap using best looking crack. Start is 5.7. Cross into crack on left after 20 feet. Protects better than it looks. Becomes easy slab.
Pitch 10. 30 meters. 5.5 slab.
Scramble and micro 5.3 pitch to summit.
Location
This route starts at the base of a prominent buttress on the North side of Windy Peak, to the West and up-canyon of A Midsummer Night's Scheme. Find the easiest terrain that trends up and left from the base using intermittent cracks. First pitch starts well right of gully/chimney system in buttress. 1.5 hour approach.
Walk off following hiker cairns with 1 short 30 foot rap off tree with yellow sling shortly after leaving summit of buttress. Trend north and east into the upper reaches of the wash. Some wash scrub brush shwacking and easy downclimbing leads back to the lower wash. Does not quite pass by the start, but would be a short hike back up to the base to retrieve stashed gear. Took us 3 hours from summit to hike back to car.
Walk off following hiker cairns with 1 short 30 foot rap off tree with yellow sling shortly after leaving summit of buttress. Trend north and east into the upper reaches of the wash. Some wash scrub brush shwacking and easy downclimbing leads back to the lower wash. Does not quite pass by the start, but would be a short hike back up to the base to retrieve stashed gear. Took us 3 hours from summit to hike back to car.
Protection
Single rack to 4 inches. Double in .75 to 3 inch. No fixed protection. Most cruxes are well protected, but be prepared to run it out on easy terrain, and pull a couple harder moves where you'd fall a ways before your last piece and it wouldn't be fun. Let me know if you're interested in repeating the route and I'll try to spray you down with as much beta as you want.
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