Prudden Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 983 ft | 300 m |
| GPS: |
40.95819, -74.74708 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 5,436 total · 58/month | |
| Shared By: | kenr on May 18, 2018 | |
| Admins: | SMarsh |
Description
Steep rock with interesting features.
Routes mainly 45-55 ft, facing mainly SW.
Cool weather days nice in afternoon due to favorable exposure. Much is shaded by mature trees, so not as hot as might expect on hot afternoons.
Top-roping: Reaching top of cliff to set up anchors is likely easiest up around SE side - (? but might work shorter around NW side ?).
Name: Bonnie Prudden was the most popularly famous serious climber in America ever (at least until 2010).
First Ascent in the 1950s of "Bonnie's Roof" the great classic Gunks route, and other FAs. Devastating in every way: athletic, smart, charming, pretty -- skier, dancer. And a self-driven climber from childhood: When her parents told her to stay up in her room, she would just climb out the window. Later climbed classic mountain routes in Switzerland and Italy. In 1954 built one of the first public artificial climbing walls in USA.
Working together with Hans Krauss (the FA leader of "High Exposure" the other great classic Gunks route), discovered a new approach for children's health and strength, and she was named to the first US President's Council on Physical Fitness. 1957 cover photo on famous national magazine, sponsorship of popular healthy breakfast cereal, then her own television show. Which left no time for climbing. Then she organized and promoted a drug-free approach to managing pain and focused on that.
Two of her rather helpful devices are the BoDo and the Crook -- simpler than competing devices, but perhaps more effective for climbers.
warning: Loose rock is still a concern in this sector. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber or underneath a leader setting up top anchor.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Getting There
In the third cluster of crags from Parking (uphill from the Walsh+Kovalcik cluster), just left from sector Krauss.
- - > See this Photo
From N end of parking (N40.9560 W74.7371) by end of Cranberry Lake, walk N flat about 1050 feet, soon crossing the asphalt North Shore Rd, onto 4-6 ft wide dirt path of Sussex Rail Trail to (N40.9591 W74.7388). Here turn Left (W) onto hiking trail marked with green plastic squares. A little up then down into the first "pre-hollow", for about 1300 feet past some ponds with some ups and downs to reach the start of the steep uphill section. Continue uphill about 580 feet, then another 100-150 ft roughly flat.
Leave marked trail around (N40.9575 W74.7448), bear slight right (WNW) and bushwhack about 500 ft gentle down WNW. Next up the hill roughly NW 120 ft, then gentle 100 ft (passing below sector Krauss) to reach base of sector Prudden.
Effort: +180 vertical feet uphill over 0.75 mile distance. Typical hiking time 17-33 minutes.
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