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Routes in Hogwarts

Daily Prophet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Arts, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dobby S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Description

This is the huge orange and gray limestone wall on the east side of East Elk Canyon. This sector currently contains 44 completed routes through a wide variety of grades but with the majority being in the 5.12 and 5.13- range. The climbing is nothing like Rifle Canyon, none of the the blocky features, it is much more similiar to the Wailing Wall in St. George, except with a good amount of the Western Slope limestone choss. The climbing is quite technical and mostly just past vertical, with a few steeper lines. There is still plenty of undeveloped rock on the upper end of the cliff, with some steeper lines awaiting futuristic ascents.

Getting There

From the East Elk parking area, hike up the road 50 yards and pass thru the right gate (the left gate leads to private land). Continue up the dirt forest road 0.4 miles just past a cattle guard. Turn left here, and figure out how to get across the stream. There is currently a large tree with fixed lines, that should get you across even during high water. During low water, it may be easier to cross on a smaller tree or rock hop across the stream. Once across the stream, there are several trails depending on where you crossed at, continue up the hill 50 yards to an irrigation ditch. From here, find a good trail that should be cairned that switchbacks up the hill emerging at the far left side of the cliff.

Season

Facing slightly north of east, this makes for a good spring, summer, fall crag. The crag begins to go into the shade around 1:00 thru most of the year. Winter climbing is doable on a warm day, you can warm up in the morning in the sun and enjoy prime (cold) temperatures in the afternoon on rock that was previously sun warmed.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hogwarts

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Daily Prophet
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Dobby
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Daily Prophet
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dobby
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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