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Menagerie Wilderness Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Menagerie Wilderness

Bridge Group, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3

Lower Menagerie 6 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 7

Rabbit Ears 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3

Turkey Monster Group 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1

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Elevation:	3,382 ft	1,031 m
GPS:	44.41747, -122.30495 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	22,247 total · 268/month
Shared By:	Adam Oliver on Feb 20, 2018 · Updates
Admins:	Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Small wilderness area located in the Willamette National Forest. This is the infamous crag you've heard rumors of with over 180 mostly multi-pitch climbs. 20 miles east of Sweet Home lie some of the most unique and peculiar volcanic formations and pinnacles in Oregon, the most famous of these being the Turkey Monster formation, an improbable 350 foot tall volcanic plug that is larger in center than its base. The best way I could describe the climbing is as being dirty, adventurous, alpine cragging. What to expect: bold routes, moss, long runouts, A relentless (but beautiful) approach, many bad bolts, seclusion, choss, satisfying summits, very good stories and more moss.

Getting There

Lower Menagerie:

Head East through Sweet Home on Hwy 20 for about 20 miles. Look for the rooster rock trailhead sign; rooster rock trail is your approach.

Upper Menagerie (Upper Climber's Camp):

From Santiam Pass highway 20 take Moose Mtn. Road FS-2027 9.5 miles to Forest Service Road FS-850-857. This road is technically closed until 2 weeks after peregrine young on N. Rabbit Ear eyrie fledge (no later than July 1). Don't be surprised if the gate opens later.

After July 1, if the gate is closed walk in taking first right pass the gate (FS-850) for 2.0 mile to the Campsite & Rooster Rock ridge trail.

Otherwise, drive staying straight up FS-857 for 1.0-mile turning right, and right again at 1.3-miles onto FS-856, or staying straight and following either road to it's logical end where you'll find free remote camping and a trailhead down to FS-850 and Upper Menagerie.

Refer to Map 2, pp. 139 in Western Oregon Rock Climbing, Vol. 1. The Willamette, 2nd. Ed. 2006.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Menagerie Wilderness

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 7 ● West Face Trad, Alpine 4 pitches Rabbit Ears > S Rabbit Ear
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R 8 ● Dod Route Trad, Alpine 4 pitches Turkey Monster Group