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Routes in Devil's Chimney

Church Lady T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Hangin' with Diablo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
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Description

Devil's Chimney is a very nice and unique area just off the main Cooks Wall trail. It is primarily gear climbing with excellent height and exposure. Over the years many have visited this alluring spot and stopped to do a couple of the easier obvious lines but Neil Rankin and Tim Fisher are responsible for taking the time to make this a spot worthy of going and hanging out. There are over half a dozen lines from 5.6 - 5.11 and although, like a lot of Cooks, the rock doesn't look so great from the ground in some spots, it is surprisingly good to great and most of it is excellent climbing. The wall faces west and is high on the ridge in a corridor, so windy days could be a factor and the wall only gets sun in the afternoon hours.

Getting There

Hike the Cooks Wall trail to House Rock. From House Rock walk uphill for 10 minutes to the Cooks summit. Walk another 5 minutes, across the ridge over flat rolling terrain, until you come to Devil's Chimney, which is the very obvious gully/cleft on your left. In order to get to the base with packs, continue to walk the main trail going west and turn left into the woods just past the gully. Make your way through the woods on faint trails that eventually lead you over and past several boulders and to the bottom of the cliff. You will have come in on the west side of Devil's Chimney; walk across the narrow corridor to the east wall, which will be climbers right. 'Hanging With Diablo' will be the farthest left line into the throat of the chimney.

2 Total Climbs

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