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Routes in Devil's Chimney

Church Lady T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Hangin' with Diablo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Neil Rankin, Tim Fisher (Nov '15, ground-up)
Page Views: 84 total · 17/month
Shared By: Neil Rankin on Jan 28, 2018
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description [Suggest Change]

An adventurous outing.

Pull a few moves into a large rounded flake below the overhanging corner aiming for the vertical crack that splits the bulge. At the bulge clip the overhead bolt and climb the crux (5.11). Steep moves on rounded holds and questionable rock put you in the vertical crack where there is some pro and more steep cranks.

Once out of the bulge the climbing is 5.9 with technical pro to the ledge below the bulging cap of the cliff. At the ledge you can actually escape left, but you'll be missing some fantastic climbing.

Climb the crack above of the ledge trending slightly left before aping out right to good holds and another 20 feet of fun climbing.

Build a Natural anchor to bring your partner up. A single 60 meter just makes it to the ground from the rappel anchor located at climber’s right.

Location [Suggest Change]

Far left side of the wall further back in the gully.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Nuts, 1 set of cams to 3.5 inches, 1 set of tricams to no. 3 (or more cams), a 3 or 4 foot sling for draping over a large spike.

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