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First Face Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in First Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anniversary Waltzes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	April Cool T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Arches, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Black Diamond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Indian Summer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Ludicrous Anachronism (LA) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Mea Culpa S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Professor Diggs and the Berry Bandit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pyramid T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Scrape and Pillage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Sins and Trangressions S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Slave to Fashion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Time Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Weight of History, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Westward Migration S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Elevation:	151 ft	46 m
GPS:	44.81955, -63.20287 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Neil Atkinson on Aug 21, 2017
Admins:	Will Bland, Greg Hughes, Will Sarty Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Please park at the end of Paces Lake Drive. Details

Locals do not appreciate climbers parking directly on Paces Lake Drive. Please park at the pull off where the road intersects with the 357.

Additionally, this cliff is on private land. The landowners are o.k. with people rock climbing here, so long as they agree to the following conditions:

climb at your own risk
pick up any trash that you see lying around (even if it’s not yours)
do not camp above the cliff or make fires

Description

First Face offers some of the finest climbing in the province, in both sport and traditional styles. Although the climbs are all single pitches, most are a decent length (~25m). And with the added height of the scree slope rising out of Paces Lake, the exposure is delicious. The rock is of unusually fine quality – much friendlier than most of the granite in Nova Scotia – with flat positive holds and decent friction.

In the off-seasons, the rock catches a fair bit of sun and so tends to be warmer than most other places at these times of year. If there’s no wind the bugs can be bad but if it’s blowing, you can steal a few climbing days here during the peak of bug season. It’s also one of the first cliffs to dry after a rain.

It is worth noting that with a limited number of easily accessible moderate routes, a beginner party may be more interested in other local crags such as The Spot, orThe Castle. For more information visit climbnovascotia.ca/crags/

Getting There

Coming from the Musquodoboit Harbour junction, drive past the gated logging road for Main Face, to Paces Lake Drive. Park in a pull-off where the two roads intersect. Walk up Paces Lake Drive to the trail head on the left side of the gate.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at First Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 12 ● Black Diamond Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 6 ● Westward Migration Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 4 ● Professor Diggs and the Berry Ba… Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 5 ● The Weight of History Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 5 ● Pyramid Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 10 ● Ludicrous Anachronism (LA) Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 5 ● Slave to Fashion Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 4 ● Mea Culpa Sport