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Routes in First Face

Anniversary Waltzes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
April Cool T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Diamond T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Indian Summer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ludicrous Anachronism (LA) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mea Culpa S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Professor Diggs and the Berry Bandit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pyramid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Scrape and Pillage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sins and Trangressions S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Slave to Fashion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Time Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weight of History, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Westward Migration S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Elevation: 151 ft
GPS: 44.82, -63.203 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 666 total · 55/month
Shared By: Neil Atkinson on Aug 21, 2017
Admins: Will Bland
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Access Issue: Please park at the end of Paces Lake Drive. Details

Description

First Face offers some of the finest climbing in the province, in both sport and traditional styles. Although the climbs are all single pitches, most are a decent length (~25m). And with the added height of the scree slope rising out of Paces Lake, the exposure is delicious. The rock is of unusually fine quality – much friendlier than most of the granite in Nova Scotia – with flat positive holds and decent friction.

In the off-seasons, the rock catches a fair bit of sun and so tends to be warmer than most other places at these times of year. If there’s no wind the bugs can be bad but if it’s blowing, you can steal a few climbing days here during the peak of bug season. It’s also one of the first cliffs to dry after a rain.

It is worth noting that with a limited number of easily accessible moderate routes, a beginner party may be more interested in other local crags such as G-Spot, or The Castle. For more information visit climbnovascotia.ca/crags/

Getting There

Coming from the Musquodoboit Harbour junction, drive past the gated logging road for Main Face, to Paces Lake Drive. Park in a pull-off where the two roads intersect. Walk up Paces Lake Drive to the trail head on the left side of the gate.

14 Total Climbs

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