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Areas in Sandstone Canyon

Bonnie's Pillar 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Gecko Wall 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Sandstone Canyon Bouldering 1 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Wave, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 4,000 ft
GPS: 36.062, -115.473 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,029 total, 424/month
Shared By: DesertDan on Jul 23, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

Description

Long considered off limits by the lay climber because of the zealous guarding of the canyon entrance by Spring Mt Ranch State Park, which owns the entire mouth of the canyon. This has led to Sandstone Canyon being underdeveloped climbing-wise compared to the rest of Red Rock. However, climbers have been coming here for a long time. Around 1990 I heard Wendell Broussard talk of climbing here years before. They had climbed one of the stellar cracks on the south side of the canyon by the entrance certain that they were doing a first ascent only to find old rotted webbing at the top. That said, Sandstone Canyon is full of long awesome routes up to 1500+ feet tall.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

Access:
1. The best legal access is from the backside. Go to the second dirt road, Rainbow Springs Rd, one mile up Lovell Canyon Rd from Hwy 160 and turn right. Park several miles up at Rainbow Springs (or as far as the road goes). Most cars can make all but the last part of this road. Hike east over the Keystone Thrust.
2. A few hundred feet on the east side of Mt Springs Pass turn north on Mater Mea Pl. The road immediately splits three ways, take the right fork up the hill and park in a wide spot before the cell tower. Continue on the road which quickly morphs into an unofficial trail to the Keystone Thrust Fault and along the ridge to the back of the canyon, a superb hike in it’s own right and a long approach.
3. Park at First Creek, hike to the base of the escarpment and cross country to the canyon. Spring Mt Ranch owns the entire mouth of the canyon so, to avoid trespassing, check the map and make sure you’re up high enough to avoid their property.
4. We used to obtain permission from Bonnie Springs to hike and climb back here by promising to grab a burger and beer at the end of the day when we returned. Because Spring Mt Ranch owns the land all the way up onto vertical cliffs on the south side of the canyon, it would still be trespassing to walk into the canyon here. But Mustang Canyon and other cliffs can still be legally accessed this way :)

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