All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks

Sandstone Canyon Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Sandstone Canyon

Bonnie's Pillar 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Gecko Wall 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Wave, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

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Elevation:	4,061 ft	1,238 m
GPS:	36.06242, -115.47309 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	23,432 total · 225/month
Shared By:	SenorDB on Jul 23, 2017 · Updates
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Access Issue: No access via State Park Details

The Spring Mountain Ranch State Park would be the obvious access point for the canyon; however, they do not allow access to the canyon through their land and have rangers patrolling regularly. Currently, the only legal access options are from the back side (west), or the north and south mouths of the canyon, carefully skirting along the borders of the state park to avoid trespassing.

Description

Long considered off limits by the lay climber because of the zealous guarding of the canyon entrance by Spring Mt Ranch State Park, which owns the entire mouth of the canyon. This has led to Sandstone Canyon being underdeveloped climbing-wise compared to the rest of Red Rock. However, climbers have been coming here for a long time. Around 1990 I heard Wendell Broussard talk of climbing here years before. They had climbed one of the stellar cracks on the south side of the canyon by the entrance certain that they were doing a first ascent only to find old rotted webbing at the top. That said, Sandstone Canyon is full of long awesome routes up to 1500+ feet tall.

Getting There

Access:
1. The best legal access is from the backside. Go to the second dirt road, Rainbow Springs Rd, one mile up Lovell Canyon Rd from Hwy 160 and turn right. Park several miles up at Rainbow Springs (or as far as the road goes). Most cars can make all but the last part of this road. Hike east over the Keystone Thrust.
2. A few hundred feet on the east side of Mt Springs Pass turn north on Mater Mea Pl. The road immediately splits three ways, take the right fork up the hill and park in a wide spot before the cell tower. Continue on the road which quickly morphs into an unofficial trail to the Keystone Thrust Fault and along the ridge to the back of the canyon, a superb hike in it’s own right and a long approach.
3. Park at First Creek, hike to the base of the escarpment and cross country to the canyon. Spring Mt Ranch owns the entire mouth of the canyon so, to avoid trespassing, check the map and make sure you’re up high enough to avoid their property.
4. Park at Black Velvet, hike across the desert near the base of the escarpment to access Mustang Canyon and cliffs south of Sandstone Canyon.