Sandstone Canyon Climbing
|GPS:||36.062, -115.473 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||3,400 total · 426/month|
|Shared By:||DesertDan on Jul 23, 2017|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
DescriptionLong considered off limits by the lay climber because of the zealous guarding of the canyon entrance by Spring Mt Ranch State Park, which owns the entire mouth of the canyon. This has led to Sandstone Canyon being underdeveloped climbing-wise compared to the rest of Red Rock. However, climbers have been coming here for a long time. Around 1990 I heard Wendell Broussard talk of climbing here years before. They had climbed one of the stellar cracks on the south side of the canyon by the entrance certain that they were doing a first ascent only to find old rotted webbing at the top. That said, Sandstone Canyon is full of long awesome routes up to 1500+ feet tall.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
1. The best legal access is from the backside. Go to the second dirt road, Rainbow Springs Rd, one mile up Lovell Canyon Rd from Hwy 160 and turn right. Park several miles up at Rainbow Springs (or as far as the road goes). Most cars can make all but the last part of this road. Hike east over the Keystone Thrust.
2. A few hundred feet on the east side of Mt Springs Pass turn north on Mater Mea Pl. The road immediately splits three ways, take the right fork up the hill and park in a wide spot before the cell tower. Continue on the road which quickly morphs into an unofficial trail to the Keystone Thrust Fault and along the ridge to the back of the canyon, a superb hike in it’s own right and a long approach.
3. Park at First Creek, hike to the base of the escarpment and cross country to the canyon. Spring Mt Ranch owns the entire mouth of the canyon so, to avoid trespassing, check the map and make sure you’re up high enough to avoid their property.
4. We used to obtain permission from Bonnie Springs to hike and climb back here by promising to grab a burger and beer at the end of the day when we returned. Because Spring Mt Ranch owns the land all the way up onto vertical cliffs on the south side of the canyon, it would still be trespassing to walk into the canyon here. But Mustang Canyon and other cliffs can still be legally accessed this way :)
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