PRINT: Rock Climbing in Sandstone Canyon, Red Rocks

(15) Sandstone Canyon

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Long considered off limits by the lay climber because of the zealous guarding of the canyon entrance by Spring Mt Ranch State Park, which owns the entire mouth of the canyon. This has led to Sandstone Canyon being underdeveloped climbing-wise compared to the rest of Red Rock. However, climbers have been coming here for a long time. Around 1990 I heard Wendell Broussard talk of climbing here years before. They had climbed one of the stellar cracks on the south side of the canyon by the entrance certain that they were doing a first ascent only to find old rotted webbing at the top. That said, Sandstone Canyon is full of long awesome routes up to 1500+ feet tall.

Getting There

Access:
1. The best legal access is from the backside. Go to the second dirt road, Rainbow Springs Rd, one mile up Lovell Canyon Rd from Hwy 160 and turn right. Park several miles up at Rainbow Springs (or as far as the road goes). Most cars can make all but the last part of this road. Hike east over the Keystone Thrust.
2. A few hundred feet on the east side of Mt Springs Pass turn north on Mater Mea Pl. The road immediately splits three ways, take the right fork up the hill and park in a wide spot before the cell tower. Continue on the road which quickly morphs into an unofficial trail to the Keystone Thrust Fault and along the ridge to the back of the canyon, a superb hike in it’s own right and a long approach.
3. Park at First Creek, hike to the base of the escarpment and cross country to the canyon. Spring Mt Ranch owns the entire mouth of the canyon so, to avoid trespassing, check the map and make sure you’re up high enough to avoid their property.
4. Park at Black Velvet, hike across the desert near the base of the escarpment to access Mustang Canyon and cliffs south of Sandstone Canyon.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Spring Mt Ranch State Park boundaries from gisgate.co.clark.nv.us/ow where it can be viewed in detail.

Sandstone Canyon.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Optimistic
New Paltz

Could someone clarify the access issue? The Spring Mountain Ranch State Park website doesn't seem to mention any climbing- or canyon-related access restrictions. Nov 30, 2021

SenorDB
Old Pueblo

It used to be that Spring Mt Ranch actively discouraged people from going into Sandstone Canyon unless it was on one of their guided tours. Since they own the mouth of the canyon from cliff to cliff it's easy to do this. However, the canyon itself is open to the public because its BLM land. It's very unlikely that SMRSP would be agreeable to letting folk cross their property but you could ask. I've had great success in areas with sticky access by being on the down-low and respectful. Dec 1, 2021

Optimistic
New Paltz

Thanks Ramblin. Definitely I'm in agreement about respecting landowners wishes. I'm just puzzled about the "state park" part...normally I associate state parks with being able to walk where you want to (although the NY State Park system where I live is admittedly quite hostile to actual climbing). I guess Spring Mountain is more of a historic site/museum kind of park, rather than a walk around and do what you want kind of park? Dec 29, 2021

Optimistic
New Paltz

Hi again,
Just to close the loop on the comments above, I did write to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park, asking only about the possibility of hiking (did not mention any other type of recreational activity which might or might not occur at the end of the hike) into Sandstone Canyon via the State Park, and mentioned that I'd heard this was not permitted. The park director's reply is below. Doesn't look like a lot of ambiguity here to me! Too bad, but on the other hand it probably makes for a much quieter experience up there if you are willing to work a little bit for it.

"You heard correctly-all visitors must stay on established park trails within Spring Mountain Ranch State Park so that we can protect the park’s scenic, natural, historic, paleontological, and archeological resources; No off-trail hiking is allowed. If you access Sandstone Canyon you must do so from the BLM or USFS property.

Please make sure that you get a good map as we have issued citations to trespassers in the past who wandered onto State Park land. You can call us at (702) 875-4141 if you have any questions or would like further clarification as to the park’s boundaries." Dec 30, 2021