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Routes in Juniper Wall

Aerobic Up Chuck, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Aerobics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bird T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Bird Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carne y Papas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hoosier Daddy T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Jarring One Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Johnny Appleseed T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Knuckles T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leopard Skin Unitard T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Maggie's Farm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Eight Ball T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Meh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Renegades of Funk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Short But Wide T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Vegetative State T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertical Gardener, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Description

Lots of crack here...especially in the 5.9-5.10 range. While most of the routes are mixed, a vast majority of the climbing is protected with gear.
Resting at ~9000 feet, this southeast facing cliff gets an abundance of sunshine, giving it a long season from early spring well into the fall. On the hot days of summer, the wall goes into the shade around 1PM.

In general, the wall is approximately 45-55m high. Midway anchors across the face allow easy descents with single rope rappels. A single 70m rope will get you up and down all of the climbs here.
As of 5/2018, all protection bolts and anchor bolts are bomber Fixe stainless steel, and all anchors have mussy hooks.
This cliff took a considerable amount of cleaning...hope you enjoy the climbing here.

Juniper Wall is located just right of Saguaro Wall. From Rock Creek Road, look for the large snag and beautiful right facing corner that forms the left side of Juniper Wall, and the large triangular roof on its right side.

Getting There

There are two good approaches. The first option is the quickest and most direct.

1. Park in the small pull out 0.4 miles past Big Tree Campground and the parking for Gong Show. Walk across the meadow and into the trees. Head upstream a short distance to the tree that crosses the creek. Once across the creek, head up and left. Look for the triangular roof on the right side of Juniper Wall. Allow 10-15 minutes.

2. Approach as for Pyramid, Elixir, or 420 Walls. Park 0.8 mile up from Gong Show parking at a pull out. From the parking, walk to the creek and go downstream along an obvious trail beside creek. Follow trail for ~150 meters/ 90 seconds to a tree that spans the creek. Avoid the temptation to cross early, or you will bushwhack. After crossing at the tree, the trail turns right thru the trees. Once you break out of the trees, stay right and follow cairns and trail up hillside to the right of large talus field and below Elixir Wall. Near the top of the talus field, turn right. As you traverse across the hillside, you will be a couple hundred feet below 420 Wall. You will traverse right below Saguaro Wall. Move right around Saguaro Wall to the large snag that forms the left side of Juniper Wall. Allow 15-20 minutes.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Juniper Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 4
Hoosier Daddy
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 4
Short But Wide
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Carne y Papas
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hoosier Daddy
 4
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Short But Wide
 4
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Carne y Papas
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Juniper Wall »

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Photos

phylp
Upland
phylp   Upland
Thanks for the routes and the well marked approach trail. This cliff has the same aspect as most other cliffs in Rock Creek and is in the sun until 2:15 this time of year. Jun 27, 2018

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