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Juniper Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Juniper Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aerobic Up Chuck, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Aerobics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Big Bird T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Big Bird Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Carne y Papas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hoosier Daddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jarring One Loose T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Johnny Appleseed T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Knuckles T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Leopard Skin Unitard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Maggie's Farm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Magic Eight Ball S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Meh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Outlook Good S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Renegades of Funk S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Shake Weight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Short But Wide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Vegetative State T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Vertical Gardener, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Elevation:	9,000 ft	2,743 m
GPS:	37.5039, -118.72036 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	15,867 total · 175/month
Shared By:	JimmyB on Jun 23, 2017 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Lots of crack here...especially in the 5.9-5.10 range. While most of the routes are mixed, a vast majority of the climbing is protected with gear.

Resting at ~9000 feet, this southeast facing cliff gets an abundance of sunshine, giving it a long season from early spring well into the fall. On the hot days of summer, the wall goes into the shade around 1PM.

In general, the wall is approximately 45-55m high. Midway anchors across the face allow easy descents with single rope rappels. A single 70m rope will get you up and down all of the climbs here.

As of 5/2021, all protection bolts and anchor bolts are bomber Fixe stainless steel, and all anchors have mussy hooks.

There are also several sets of anchors on top of the crag that gives top rope/ top rope solo access.

This cliff took a considerable amount of cleaning...hope you enjoy the climbing here.

Juniper Wall is located just right of Saguaro Wall. From Rock Creek Road, look for the large snag and beautiful right facing corner that forms the left side of Juniper Wall, and the large triangular roof on the wall's right side.

Getting There

Park in the small paved pull out 0.4 miles past Big Meadow Campground and the parking for Gong Show. Walk across the meadow and into the trees. Head upstream a short distance to the tree that crosses the creek. Once across the creek, head up and left. Look for the triangular roof on the right side of Juniper Wall. Allow 10-15 minutes.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Juniper Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 9 ● Vegetative State Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 5 ● The Vertical Gardener Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 13 ● Hoosier Daddy Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 6 ● Short But Wide Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 10 ● Knuckles Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 14 ● Carne y Papas Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 10 ● Magic Eight Ball Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 4 ● Big Bird Left Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 4 ● Outlook Good Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 5 ● Renegades of Funk Sport