Elevation: 10,000 ft
GPS: 37.959, -119.204 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,708 total · 124/month
Shared By: Bruce Morris on Feb 20, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

The Pyramid and Warren Towers are conspicuous granite formations located high above and to the north of a pullout on the Tioga Road (US 120) a quarter mile below the 'Blue Slide' (mile post 41) where Caltrans often parks a bulldozer for removing rock debris from the road surface. The Pyramid has routes about 500-feet in length. The highest and proudest of the Warren Towers is the left-most of the three and had an anonymous ascent as early as 1930 plus a couple of more recent ascents. One must assume that the other Warren Towers were summited earlier too.

Getting There

The hike up to both formations begins at the pullout on the US 120 described above. Getting to The Pyramid only takes about 40 minutes. However, the approach to the three Warren Towers can involve up to a 2.5-hour slog. To get to The Pyramid, hike up the hill a few minutes and then start cutting over left (some bushwhacking), and gain a talus field that heads up to the base. The way up the long gulley to the Warren Towers is painfully obvious but, after a couple thousand feet, leads to striking views of the Ellery Ridges, the Third Pillar, and Mt. Dana itself.

Darien Raistrick has added these notes about the approach to the Warren Towers : “The crux of the gully approach to the Warren Towers is the first 400 feet above the road. The gully per se is choked with willows low down and is best avoided. It is a mistake to take to the slopes right of the gully as one quickly becomes mired in thorn bush scrub and dead trees. A better route is to start up the hillside to the left of the gully where you can follow animal trails and avoid the worst of the bushwhacking. After 300-400 vertical feet of this sagebrush hillside start to contour rightwards toward the gully. When you reach the gully you will be pleasantly surprised to find water-polished bedrock that makes for easy ascent. Higher the gully floor turns to talus and dirt but the going is not bad. It took us 1 1/2 hours to reach the middle Warren Tower after wasting at least 15 minutes thrashing out right of the gully down by the road.”

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pyramid & Warren Towers

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Federal Holiday
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Federal Holiday Pyramid
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
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