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Lawless Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Lawless Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Adrenaline S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Andy's Encore S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Chimney Sweep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Coup Stick S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Cowboy Smarts S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cresent Conundrum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dancing With Too Many Women S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Expressway S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fool's Way Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Giddy-Up S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hanging Judge S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Haute Cuisine S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jurisdiction S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Monpoly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Real UT is in Tennessee, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Running From the Law S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Scott Free S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Shaded Cave Traverse V3 6A
	Shape Shifter S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Texas 2 Step T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	War Path S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Way Out, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Wrangler Savvy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Elevation:	1,200 ft	366 m
GPS:	29.70547, -101.35552 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	21,321 total · 223/month
Shared By:	Graham L on Jan 31, 2017
Admins:	mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Tread Lightly. See info: Details

The National Park Service manages the Pecos River starting at the Rio Grande and continuing 14 miles up river. They own the cliffs up to an elevation of 1,144 feet and have no policy against climbing up to that height. Climbing above that elevation is considered trespassing. On topo maps, the cliff tops tend to be around 1,200 feet. The routes in this section are on the East bank of the river between the boat launch and the Hwy 90 bridge. The NPS owns this section of cliff from top to bottom so all the routes described here are 100% OK to climb. There is another exception to the elevation rule: just north of the high bridge, on the east bank of the river, several acres of cliff line are owned by the Rock Art Foundation. This section at one time had bolted routes on it, but there are Native American pictographs there and climbing is now strictly forbidden.

Description

This nice little cove has a little bit of something for everyone. The majority of routes come in around the 5.10 mark, with a handful of routes below and a handful above. The iconic Dancing With Too Many Women (5.12b) is located on the left (Northern) end of the cove. The area stays shaded until mid afternoon, with some routes never receiving sun.

Getting There

Follow the cliff line from the boat ramp up river until you get to a large cove. The climb Dancing With Too Many Women boast a large, south facing, prominent face that makes a good landmark.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lawless Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 11 ● Haute Cuisine Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 11 ● The Real UT is in Tennessee Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 13 ● Expressway Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 8 ● Scott Free Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 11 ● Giddy-Up Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 5 ● Cowboy Smarts Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 7 ● Wrangler Savvy Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 6 ● Dancing With Too Many Women Sport