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Routes in Split Thumb

SE Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 5,523 ft
GPS: 58.408, -134.311 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Matt Callahan on Sep 17, 2016
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer
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Description

This prominent thumb of rock calls out to climbers looking up from many vistas in town. The SE ridge is probably the shortest, easiest and most accessible technical alpine rock climb in Juneau and gets climbed a couple times/year. The W ridge is also easy but longer and there are supposedly some longer routes more involved routes on the South Face but I don't have any details on them.

The rock on the main thumb is good granite, with lichen covered, sometimes loose blocks higher up past the technical difficulties. The rock between the glacier and the lower flanks of the thumb are orange, rotten, buzz kill, junk rock so be careful. This section is longer the later in the season that you climb. A rap anchor exists off the lower SE ridge to the glacier.

Here is a nice trip report from 2015
https://alpinemonkeys.wordpress.com/2015/07/27/split-thumb-in-a-day/

Getting There

Hike from Blackerby (Or lemon creek trail if you hate yourself) to camp 17. Cross the lemon glacier (usually cruiser) and get onto the ridge north of Scorpion Peak. Follow this ridge to the Glacier below the S face. You can also access Split Thumb from Heintzelman or via helicopter.

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