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Central Gully Rock Climbing
Routes in Central Gully
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Dark Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Dragon Slayer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dragon's Lair S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dragon's Lair Var. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dragon's Tail S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Holy Flail, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Pendulum S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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That's Gonna Itch When It Dries T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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| Elevation: | 7,904 ft | 2,409 m |
| GPS: |
38.98955, -119.90811 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 10,537 total · 105/month | |
| Shared By: | Refuge Jared on Sep 8, 2016 | |
| Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Partial seasonal raptor closure
Details
This area is known for seasonal falcon nesting.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
Description
The routes here were set in the early 90's and are sportier than the moderate stuff at the base of Castle. Approaching from above you will soon find Upper Chambers on your Right. This wall has two 5.10's and an 11d between them, all sharing a pair of open cold shuts.
Hike further near the bottom of the gully and you will come upon The Holy Flail 11b/c on the Right side, starting high, followed by the Lower Chambers wall with a 10d and 11b (L to R) sharing open cold shuts.
Hike further near the bottom of the gully and you will come upon The Holy Flail 11b/c on the Right side, starting high, followed by the Lower Chambers wall with a 10d and 11b (L to R) sharing open cold shuts.
Getting There
From the Castle Gates boulders, continue straight ahead toward Castle Rock's peak which is visible between trees. The Central Gully can be found by heading downhill on the first apparent trail after the Castle Gates where you'll see a gray weathered stump.
Approaching from above, Upper Chambers is soon found to your Right and The Holy Flail 11b/c and Lower Chambers are found near the base on the Right side.
If you hike below this you will meet the main climbing area trail just West of The Prize Cliff and Playground Rock.
Approaching from above, Upper Chambers is soon found to your Right and The Holy Flail 11b/c and Lower Chambers are found near the base on the Right side.
If you hike below this you will meet the main climbing area trail just West of The Prize Cliff and Playground Rock.
Classic Climbing Routes at Central Gully
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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