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Routes in Central Gully

Dark Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dragon Slayer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dragon's Lair S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dragon's Lair Var. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dragon's Tail S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Holy Flail, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pendulum S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elevation: 7,904 ft
GPS: 38.99, -119.908 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,044 total, 67/month
Shared By: Refuge Jared on Sep 8, 2016
Admins: Justin Johnsen
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Description

The routes here were set in the early 90's and are sportier than the moderate stuff at the base of Castle. Approaching from above you will soon find Upper Chambers on your Right. This wall has two 5.10's and an 11d between them, all sharing a pair of open cold shuts.

Hike further near the bottom of the gully and you will come upon The Holy Flail 11b/c on the Right side, starting high, followed by the Lower Chambers wall with a 10d and 11b (L to R) sharing open cold shuts.

Getting There

From the Castle Gates boulders, continue straight ahead toward Castle Rock's peak which is visible between trees. The Central Gully can be found by heading downhill on the first apparent trail after the Castle Gates where you'll see a gray weathered stump.

Approaching from above, Upper Chambers is soon found to your Right and The Holy Flail 11b/c and Lower Chambers are found near the base on the Right side.

If you hike below this you will meet the main climbing area trail just West of The Prize Cliff and Playground Rock.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Central Gully

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pendulum
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pendulum 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
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