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Dragon's Tail
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2.3 from 12
votes
Routes in Central Gully
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Dark Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Dragon Slayer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dragon's Lair S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dragon's Lair Var. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dragon's Tail S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Holy Flail, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Pendulum S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Chris Dornsife & Chazz Spaeth |
| Page Views: | 878 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Refuge Jared on Sep 14, 2016 |
| Admins: | Lurker -, Justin Johnsen |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Partial seasonal raptor closure
Details
This area is known for seasonal falcon nesting.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
Description
This is the far Left route at Upper Chambers. It starts straight up a run out face then follows under a diagonal groove in the rock veering Right to open cold shuts. Vertical face climbing. Possibly a bit sandbagged. Lower off.
Note that the R rating is arguable and should be taken with a grain of salt. The moves to the high-placed first bolt and the clipping stance are not particularly difficult for the route's 10b rating. It seems unlikely that a fall should occur, but climbers should attempt the route with forethought as a fall could result in injury. The R rating primarily serves as a heads up for climbers who are scanning the area for 5.10's which are limited in the Castle Rock area. The safety rating also takes into consideration MP's definition of R as "a fall could be dangerous," which could be accurate. MP's definition of PG13 as "slightly run out," could also be fitting.
Take the R rating and helpful user comments into consideration while looking for climbs to enjoy. Have fun, be safe, and climb on.
Note that the R rating is arguable and should be taken with a grain of salt. The moves to the high-placed first bolt and the clipping stance are not particularly difficult for the route's 10b rating. It seems unlikely that a fall should occur, but climbers should attempt the route with forethought as a fall could result in injury. The R rating primarily serves as a heads up for climbers who are scanning the area for 5.10's which are limited in the Castle Rock area. The safety rating also takes into consideration MP's definition of R as "a fall could be dangerous," which could be accurate. MP's definition of PG13 as "slightly run out," could also be fitting.
Take the R rating and helpful user comments into consideration while looking for climbs to enjoy. Have fun, be safe, and climb on.
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