Elevation: 8,000 ft
GPS: 38.669, -120.131 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 32,100 total · 515/month
Shared By: GizzardJones on Aug 10, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

Great granite in a superb remote wilderness location. All anchors can be easily reached from the top and set up for TR. There is plenty of hard trad cracks and sport climbs. Lots of potential in the area for more TR if you want to set gear anchors. There is over 50+ climbs in Old Camp Bluff area. All the route names have come from a old archived Highway 88 climbing web page. If anyone has more accurate info on FA parties or more info please share.

Getting There

From the locked gate follow the trail and cairns to the top of the wall. Multiple ways there. You will walk up from the back of the area and be directly on top. 2nd-4th class access to all TR anchors. Or you can walk left around to the base of the climbs. 10-15 minute hike from the road.

31 Total Climbs

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Location: Old Camp Bluff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Camp Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 36
Old Camp Dihedral
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 16
Nutty Butter
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Blackberry Jammin
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Marshmellow Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Ledgerly Stroll Up a Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Mustard Drippings
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 28
Meat Lover Crack AKA Bat Crack
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Don't Want S'mores
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
A Camel Came To Camp"
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
The Fiddler
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Tulip
TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
A Chickaree's Tale
Trad, TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
Dragon's Back
Sport, TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Wile E. Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Old Camp Dihedral
 36
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Nutty Butter
 16
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport, TR
Blackberry Jammin
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Marshmellow Crack
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Ledgerly Stroll Up a Crack
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Mustard Drippings
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Meat Lover Crack AKA Bat Crack
 28
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Don't Want S'mores
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
A Camel Came To Camp"
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
The Fiddler
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Tulip
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
A Chickaree's Tale
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Dragon's Back
 16
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Wile E. Crack
 3
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Old Camp Bluff »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: North · Northeast · Northwest
Details: Ground and belayer will be in tree shade, wall itself has sun morning through early afternoon.

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