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Elevation: 8,000 ft 2,438 m
GPS: 38.66885, -120.13085
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 41,655 total · 392/month
Shared By: GizzardJones on Aug 10, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Great granite in a superb remote wilderness location. All anchors can be easily reached from the top and set up for TR. There is plenty of hard trad cracks and sport climbs. Lots of potential in the area for more TR if you want to set gear anchors. There is over 50+ climbs in Old Camp Bluff area. All the route names have come from a old archived Highway 88 climbing web page. If anyone has more accurate info on FA parties or more info please share.

All anchors are without chains, quick links, etc.  Please feel free to bring and install.

Getting There Suggest change

From the locked gate follow the trail and cairns to the top of the wall. Multiple ways there. You will walk up from the back of the area and be directly on top. 2nd-4th class access to all TR anchors. Or you can walk left around to the base of the climbs. 10-15 minute hike from the road.

31 Total Climbs

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Location: Old Camp Bluff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Camp Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 54
Old Camp Dihedral
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
Nutty Butter
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Blackberry Jammin
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Marshmellow Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Ledgerly Stroll Up a Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Mustard Drippings
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
Meat Lover Crack AKA Bat Crack
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Don't Want S'mores
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
The Fiddler (aka Jim Maguire crack)
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Tulip
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 19
A Camel Came To Camp"
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
A Chickaree's Tale
Trad, TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
Dragon's Back
Sport, TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Wile E. Crack
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Old Camp Dihedral
 54
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Nutty Butter
 25
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Blackberry Jammin
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Marshmellow Crack
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Ledgerly Stroll Up a Crack
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Mustard Drippings
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Meat Lover Crack AKA Bat Crack
 42
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Don't Want S'mores
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Fiddler (aka Jim Maguir…
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Tulip
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
A Camel Came To Camp"
 19
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport, TR
A Chickaree's Tale
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Dragon's Back
 26
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Wile E. Crack
 5
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Old Camp Bluff »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Routes Mostly Face: North · Northeast · Northwest
Details: Ground and belayer will be in tree shade, wall itself has sun morning through early afternoon.

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