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Great granite in a superb remote wilderness location. All anchors can be easily reached from the top and set up for TR. There is plenty of hard trad cracks and sport climbs. Lots of potential in the area for more TR if you want to set gear anchors. There is over 50+ climbs in Old Camp Bluff area. All the route names have come from a old archived Highway 88 climbing web page. If anyone has more accurate info on FA parties or more info please share.
All anchors are without chains, quick links, etc. Please feel free to bring and install.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● Camptown Shindig |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR | ||
● Groovin' At The Old Camp |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR | ||
● Smooth as a Hotdog |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR | ||
● Ledgerly Stroll Up a Crack |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR | ||
● Bulbousness |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR | ||
● Wile E. Crack |
|
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR | ||
● Mustard Drippings |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR | ||
● Tulip |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR | ||
● Don't Want S'mores |
|
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR | ||
● Northeast Tower Left |
|
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a TR | ||
● The Fiddler (aka Jim Maguir… |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR | ||
● Meat Lover Crack AKA Bat Crack |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR | ||
● Old Camp Dihedral |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR | ||
● Nutty Butter |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR | ||
● Humpty Dumpty's Delirium |
|
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b TR | ||
● A Camel Came To Camp" |
|
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR | ||
● Dragon's Back |
|
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR | ||
● Third Degree Burn |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c TR | ||
● A Chickaree's Tale |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR | ||
● Marshmellow Crack |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR | ||
● Hollow Point |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR | ||
● No Pocket for Old Men |
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR | ||
● Ear No Evil |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR | ||
● Project |
|
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b TR | ||
● Blackberry Jammin |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR | ||
● Camp Featurette |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR | ||
● Oranger Than A Marmot |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR |
Sacramento, CA
sites.google.com/site/hwy88…
... however, I can't seem to get the pictures to appear using any browser at that website for the route descriptions, so I'll leave this up for now. I sent an email to the admin there and will wait to see what they say. That being said, if there are issues with these routes being posted here like this, please kindly let me know and I'll pull them down. Thanks to Bobby for pointing this out. Cheers... Oct 4, 2016
This next link takes you to the climbs at Old Camp Bluff near Silver Lake and to the North Cliffs at the Hwy 88 Summit.
sites.google.com/site/hwy88…
Now,I also have a site that covers new and update routes slong the Hwy 50 corridor, but does not include Lovers Leap:
sites.google.com/site/highw… Aug 8, 2017
Sacramento, CA
Grizzly Flat, CA
Significant damage to the forest on the approach and the base of the climbs but the climbs themselves appear to be unharmed. Currently there are 10 to 15 foot drifts of snow blocking the starts of most climbs.
The trail from the west has been remarked. Note there is a new trail split at a large burned and felled Juniper. See Photo.
I have been doing my best to stay on the trail or rock to allow the fragile fire damaged soil a chance to recover. May 16, 2022
Davis, CA