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Old Camp Bluff

California > Lake Tahoe > Carson Pass Hig… > Silver Lake

Description

Great granite in a superb remote wilderness location. All anchors can be easily reached from the top and set up for TR. There is plenty of hard trad cracks and sport climbs. Lots of potential in the area for more TR if you want to set gear anchors. There is over 50+ climbs in Old Camp Bluff area. All the route names have come from a old archived Highway 88 climbing web page. If anyone has more accurate info on FA parties or more info please share.

All anchors are without chains, quick links, etc.  Please feel free to bring and install.

Getting There

From the locked gate follow the trail and cairns to the top of the wall. Multiple ways there. You will walk up from the back of the area and be directly on top. 2nd-4th class access to all TR anchors. Or you can walk left around to the base of the climbs. 10-15 minute hike from the road.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 0
Camptown Shindig
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Groovin' At The Old Camp
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Smooth as a Hotdog
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Ledgerly Stroll Up a Crack
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 0
Bulbousness
Trad, TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Wile E. Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Mustard Drippings
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Tulip
TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Don't Want S'mores
Trad, TR
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 0
Northeast Tower Left
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
The Fiddler (aka Jim Maguire crack)
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 37
Meat Lover Crack AKA Bat Crack
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 48
Old Camp Dihedral
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Nutty Butter
Sport, TR
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Humpty Dumpty's Delirium
TR
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 17
A Camel Came To Camp"
Sport, TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Dragon's Back
Sport, TR
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 0
Third Degree Burn
TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
A Chickaree's Tale
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Marshmellow Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Hollow Point
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 0
No Pocket for Old Men
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Ear No Evil
Trad, TR
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 0
Project
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Blackberry Jammin
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Camp Featurette
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 0
Oranger Than A Marmot
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Camptown Shindig
 0
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Groovin' At The Old Camp
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Smooth as a Hotdog
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Ledgerly Stroll Up a Crack
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Bulbousness
 0
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Wile E. Crack
 4
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR
Mustard Drippings
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Tulip
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Don't Want S'mores
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Northeast Tower Left
 0
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a TR
The Fiddler (aka Jim Maguir…
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Meat Lover Crack AKA Bat Crack
 37
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Old Camp Dihedral
 48
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Nutty Butter
 23
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Humpty Dumpty's Delirium
 1
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b TR
A Camel Came To Camp"
 17
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Dragon's Back
 22
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Third Degree Burn
 0
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c TR
A Chickaree's Tale
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Marshmellow Crack
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Hollow Point
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
No Pocket for Old Men
 0
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR
Ear No Evil
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Project
 0
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b TR
Blackberry Jammin
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Camp Featurette
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Oranger Than A Marmot
 0
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

New trail split when coming from the West.
[Hide Photo] New trail split when coming from the West.
This post marks the start of the climber's trail towards OCB if approaching from the gate across from the Sandy Cove Picnic Area. The trail is on the right of the paved (but broken up) road, about 50yds past the locked gate.
[Hide Photo] This post marks the start of the climber's trail towards OCB if approaching from the gate across from the Sandy Cove Picnic Area. The trail is on the right of the paved (but broken up) road, about…
East facing wall
[Hide Photo] East facing wall
Img 6, east portion of north wall
[Hide Photo] Img 6, east portion of north wall
Moving from north west, eastward, img 2
[Hide Photo] Moving from north west, eastward, img 2
North-northwest-ish img 1
[Hide Photo] North-northwest-ish img 1

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Franklin
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] So to follow up... apparently there IS still a website with all this information. It looks as though the topo I have (which was given to me by some nice folks I met while climbing here) is a direct print out from the site:
sites.google.com/site/hwy88…

... however, I can't seem to get the pictures to appear using any browser at that website for the route descriptions, so I'll leave this up for now. I sent an email to the admin there and will wait to see what they say. That being said, if there are issues with these routes being posted here like this, please kindly let me know and I'll pull them down. Thanks to Bobby for pointing this out. Cheers... Oct 4, 2016
[Hide Comment] Hello Matt. Here is the link to Old Camp Bluff at Silver Lake. I hadn't visited or edited the site for about 3 mos., and in that interim, "something" happened (I've found Google sites so hard to work with) and all my photos of Old Camp Bluff were deleted. Anyway, I spent 6 hrs. today making all the changes and re-uploading the photos. Regards, Jerry

This next link takes you to the climbs at Old Camp Bluff near Silver Lake and to the North Cliffs at the Hwy 88 Summit.

sites.google.com/site/hwy88…

Now,I also have a site that covers new and update routes slong the Hwy 50 corridor, but does not include Lovers Leap:

sites.google.com/site/highw… Aug 8, 2017
Matt Franklin
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] Thanks Jerry! Hope you're doing well! Aug 9, 2017
Bobby Hutton
Grizzly Flat, CA
[Hide Comment] Post Caldor Fire report
Significant damage to the forest on the approach and the base of the climbs but the climbs themselves appear to be unharmed. Currently there are 10 to 15 foot drifts of snow blocking the starts of most climbs.
The trail from the west has been remarked. Note there is a new trail split at a large burned and felled Juniper. See Photo.

I have been doing my best to stay on the trail or rock to allow the fragile fire damaged soil a chance to recover. May 16, 2022
[Hide Comment] Somebody obliterated my trail into Old Camp Bluff and installed a new approach farther along the "main" trail. Here in Aug. 2022 I re-established my trail. Look, my trail has been there for years, and it is how the approach is described in my guide. If you want to build a new trail, fine, but don't destroy the original. Thanks. Aug 23, 2022
Merrilee Bufkin
Davis, CA
[Hide Comment] Great area!! Remote, wonderful, and has Emigrant Wall right next door. For those looking to climb crack, whether on trad or TR, this is the spot to do it if you've run through everything at Cosumnes 400 times (it's me, I've done that). The setting is incredible and has some of the most amazing wildflowers during the Summer. A huge thanks to Bobby et. al. & Jerry for setting up both areas and maintaining the trails, they're easy to follow, well marked, and just great hikes even if you don't take into consideration that they take you to some sick climbing spots. There's also quite a lot of face climbs in the area, so if crack isn't your style, there's still a lot to be had. I'd love to keep this hidden away for myself and the few who know about it, but I genuinely just can't shut up about how much I love the area. Both times I've been I haven't seen but one other soul (hope you found your sunglasses, my guy), and lots of beautiful scenery. Great during the super hot months when the Central Valley is sweltering! Still hot, but at least there's usually a breeze. With Silver Lake literally next door, for those of us who love an action packed day, this spot is genuinely so hard to beat. I can't say thank you enough to those of you who make climbing here possible!! You've helped fill this dihedral loving, off-width craving climber's summer with a heck of a lot of fun. Unsure if I can, but I'd be down to transfer the beta from the google site to MP, if that's allowed? Would love it all fifty+ climbs in the area were showcased here. The topo on the google site is also hard to beat. I'll try to post more pics if I get them. Sep 3, 2023