Elevation: 13,441 ft
GPS: 38.007, -107.847 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 528 total · 18/month
Shared By: Stiles on Aug 10, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

'S6' is an unnamed 13'er about four miles as the hawk flies straight west of Mt. Sneffels in the Mount Sneffels Wilderness. It is steep and loose, and successfully navigating its E-W ridgeline is the crux of the traverse from Campbell Peak to Hayden Peak. Summiting from S4, S5, or Mears Peak is a chossy challenge. From whichever direction you fancy, protect your noggin.

The Iron Mountain Trail ends close to the south face of S6, this peak rising in the back north corner of the closed valley. Camping above the end of the Iron Mt. Trail is in Spectacular solitudinous alpine meadow scenery, complete with lots of noisy running water, flower carpets, and jagged skylines. The south face consists of maximum-angle loose scree gullies of various colors and characteristics of unstable. Options abound; all steep and loose, Class II+. Many peaks are accessible from this quiet valley. Sometimes there's mewing ewes, too.

Traversing from East or West requires an ability to climb comfortably up and down many gendarmes atop the exposed, shattered knife-edge. Around 600 feet of elevation lost to scramble under cliffs on scree if you climb down off the ridge. From Mears, S6 is one mile east with low fifth-class around and up steep towers prior to the summit. From the east, it's loose and exposed fourth cla ss over sub-summits.

The North face is steepest, though it is only about 600' tall. The face is complex, featuring many couloirs and vertical mini-faces. The North ridge is the tallest feature and has vertical cliffs bottom and top. One skinny couloir snakes straight down a narrow, deep and hidden gully straight from the top; it looks like a really fun, spring, alpine ice climb.

The rock is broken. Rock pro would be unreliable and would likely loosen many rocks upon you if weighted.

The alpine ice climbs face Northeast and become 'enlightened' early. Rockfall is a constant concern in the narrow gullies.

Getting There

From the South: take the Iron Mountain Trail from west of Telluride. Start above the airport. Access from Last Dollar Road (T.60). 3 or so miles above roundabout on Hi145 is the Deep Creek Trailhead. It is car accessable. Stroll with intent 0.7 miles up the Deep Ck. Trail, and turn left where the Iron Mt. Trail breaks north. Another short way north the Whipple Mountain Trail, split off to the west (left). Iron Mountain Trail continues right another four or five miles east into the basin between Iron Mtn/Campbell Pk. (to the south) and Mears Peak (north). S5 and S6 rise to the east.

From the North: this is the easiest access. Park at Blue Lakes Trailhead at end of East Dallas Road off of Hi62 south of Ridgway. This is car accessable. Two miles up the Blue Lakes trail is a creek crossing. Past the crossing, follow the creek uphill through thin trees (easy bushwhacking, that is). The creek turns from straight west to straight north around treeline atop the falls. There are no peeks of the face until you crest treeline.

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