Elevation: 5,764 ft
GPS: 38.495, -105.11 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 39,999 total · 760/month
Shared By: Reggie Slavens on Apr 6, 2016 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

This is a sport climbing area on metamorphic granite. Phantom Canyon (CO Hwy 67) can be thought of as the sister road to Shelf Road. Like Shelf Road, Phantom Canyon runs basically North-South but is well east of Shelf Road and Canon City. The road eventually empties out in the tiny mountain town of Victor. This dirt road is commonly used by people from the Pueblo and Canon City areas that work in mining in the Victor area or in Cripple Creek casinos. It is also popular with tent campers on nice weekends.

By chasing the sun or shade climbing can be comfortable year round; however, the peak Summer months can be on the hot side. It has sunny Winter days. Late Fall and early Spring are prime seasons.

There is a large amount of rock, but unfortunately most of it is crumbly and broken up. The scattered pockets of solid rock have yielded many easily accessed, fun routes. There is also a handful of longer and multi-pitch routes available.

If 5.10 is a warm-up for you, then head to Shelf, but if you're looking for fun routes from 5.7 to 5.11, roadside access, and a much shorter drive from Colorado Springs, then you might find Phantom to your liking.

There is a nice public bathroom (pit toilet) just past the Vatican area approximately 3.0 miles from the end of the pavement.

An inexpensive mini-guide for the area can be purchased online at climbingpamphlet.com.

PLEASE NOTE:
As of early Spring 2016, Phantom Canyon contains approximately 60 bolted sport routes. Only the first half of those (as driving up the canyon) have been documented here in Mountain Project. The remaining routes, i.e. those past the public bathroom, will be documented at a later time. In the interim, route info on all Phantom Canyon sport routes can be found in the above mentioned mini-guide available at climbingpamphlet.com

There are also three 2014 vintage trad routes from another Mountain Project posting that will be investigated and incorporated into this posting as appropriate.

Getting There

From Colorado Springs, head south on CO 115 to the tiny town of Penrose. Turn right on US Hwy 50. About halfway from Penrose to Canon City, there will be a lone stop light on US Hwy 50. Turn right at this light, and you'll be on Phantom Canyon Road/CO 67.

Head north on CO 67 towards the foothills. When the pavement ends, you'll be at the mouth of Phantom Canyon and very near the beginning of the mostly roadside crags.

Per John Acker: it appears the GPS map is not correct by 2+ miles. Be cognizant of that until we can adjust the GPS site. Thanks!

42 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Phantom Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Donahue
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Chicken Dance
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 12
Francis
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
III
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Elvis
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Li'l Abner
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 10
John Paul
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Wall Street
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Two Shot
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Cross Guard
Sport 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 9
Into The Light
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Patriotic Pleasure
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Prime Directive
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Last Rites
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Kahonna Earl
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Donahue Tall Green Wall
 21
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Chicken Dance Hesse Wall
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Francis Vatican
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
III Tall Green Wall
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Elvis Bud Wall
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Li'l Abner Rdside
 11
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
John Paul Vatican
 10
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Wall Street Rdside
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Two Shot Tall Green Wall
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Cross Guard Tall Green Wall
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Into The Light Vatican
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Patriotic Pleasure Tall Green Wall
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Prime Directive Tall Green Wall
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Last Rites Vatican
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Kahonna Earl Tall Green Wall
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Phantom Canyon »

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