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Routes in Yukawa

Degenaa T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 4,178 ft
GPS: 36.016, 138.446 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 203 total, 9/month
Shared By: Christian Storms on Jan 14, 2016
Admins: Christian Storms
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Ogawayama Rain Day option

While nearby Ogawayama and its granite is the preferred area, Yukawa and its ignimbrite / lava formed tuff offers 30 routes mainly trad and is a popular rain day option as well as winter option. Also, if you are into crack climbing or training, this is the perfect spot and much easier than wandering around Ogawayama’s cracks which tend to be spread out. Gear holds on this tuff but the rock does break in places. Plan to protect more often than at a place like Ogawayama (granite).
While the season tends to be March to November climbing in dead winter is possible as long as there’s no snow. Once winter sets in, this area is a popular ice climbing spot.
The Yukawa crag was developed by JMCC members back in 1986 for twenty days from February to April. Other than Vampire, they cleaned all the other routes. Unfortunately, come routes have gone back to their original state. The main classic cracks are: Vampire, Teleportation, Cork Screw and Psychokinesis. The routes are:
1) Nazo no Hito A / 5.11d top rope, one star
2) Nazo no Hito B / 5.11c top rope
3) Tarzan XI / 5.11b top rope
4) Koi mo Bikkuri 5.11d Sport, four bolts
5) Cork Screw / 5.9 Trad, three stars
6) Psychokinesis / 5.10c Trad, three stars
7) Haniwa no Yome / 5.12a Sport, four bolts
8) 8x4 / 5.8 Trad
9) Tsubu Kakusan 5.9 Trad
10) Kita Yama Face 5.10c sport
11) Ryuusei Kante 5.12b sport 4 bolts, two stars
12) Saburanaru 5.9 Trad one star
13) Yama Kakashi 5.10a Trad
14) Teleportation 5.10d Trad three stars
15) Utakata no Hibi 5.9 Trad
16) Pekin no Aki 5.10b trad, one star
17) Vampire 5.10c Trad, three stars
18) Telepathy 5.10d Trad, one star
19) Haku Hatsuki 5.13b Trad
20) Winter Shogun 5.10d, top rope
21) Arakan 5.10c Trad
22) Tsukikae no Kishi 5.10c Trad
23) Tasogare no Maihime 5.10b Trad
24) Doukeshi 5.11a Trad
25) Degenaa 5.8 Trad
26) Foresight 5.10b Trad one star
27) Overpower 5.12a top rope
28) Kita Kaze Kozou 5.9 Trad
29) Terajima Face 5.12b top rope, two stars
30) Taiwan Bouzu 5.9 trad
Video Links:
Vampire 5.10c

Teleportation 5.10d

Degenaa 5.8 Trad

Psychokinesis 5.10d

Getting There

Drive North from Nobeyama or Kiyosato on Route 141. Two kilometers past Uminoko Station, cross the bridge over the river and make a left at a sign that says Toumyou no Yuu. If you are coming via Saku / Karuizawa area, then turn right before the bridge. Go past Toumyou no Yuu and the gravel factory and take the road that goes right up the hill. You’ll need a 4WD or something that can take the bumps.
Drive another kilometer until come to a small opening. You’ll see a no dumping sign on your left and a metal bridge over the river. This is the parking lot that holds two or three cars. Watch out for construction vehicles on the weekdays and leave space for big trucks to drive past. Leave room for drivers to do u-turns as well. There is a smaller dirt road on the left as well that goes downhill for parking. Find the path on the right and walk up the hill for five minutes and you’re there.
Gear holds on this tuff but the rock does break in places. Plan to protect more often than at a place like Ogawayama (granite).
Google Map is here:
google.com/maps/d/viewer?mi…

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