|GPS:||45.445, -110.958 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||taylor layton on Jan 11, 2016|
DescriptionTHANKS TO JOE JOSEPHSON FOR PUTTING UP THESE ROUTES (and developing so much else). I used some of his descriptions to supplement my memory of the crag.
Mixed climbing with (sometimes run out) bolts and bolt anchors. The climbing is generally easy mixed climbing on low angle terrain, with no moves harder than 5.6. It is almost completely dry tooling, but occasional patches of ice can be found. Generally the routes get harder as you move to climber's right.
Lots of snow accumulates on the routes, so you might have to search for the bolts. If snow-covered, the routes have a true mountain feel. Great for a quick diversion to easy mixed climbing if Genesis I is too full or you want to practice dry tooling.
Big thanks to Joe Josephson for the recommendation of the routes, and for setting them. Route descriptions and information are largely from his descriptions of the first ascents, which can be found here:
WARNING: JoJo and crew did a lot of work getting loose rock out of the area. However, since this area is developing and less trafficked, be aware of loose rock.
2ND WARNING: We found a substantial amount of vegetation on, around, above, and [insert any other preposition here] the routes. Be kind to the moss - there is plenty of rock - and remember to leave no trace.
Getting ThereApproach as to the Genesis 1 wall. From the base of G1, walk to climber's right as if you are walking to set up top rope anchors on G1. About 1/3 of the way up the hill, continue traversing right (up canyon) to stay at the same elevation and the same cliff band. Within 1000 feet from G1 you will get to the cliff. The first route is to the climber's left of a tree in the middle of the cliff - there is another route directly behind the tree. If there is snow on the routes, you might have to explore for bolts.
To set top ropes and access bolt anchors: "If so inspired to set top ropes, you can easily reach a big grassy platform at the top of the cliff by either walking around the right side or from the left near the top of G1 just before the little rock step. From the platform, it is a short rap to the anchors which are on lower angle rock and so might be hard to find if covered with snow." From Joe Josephson's description on Montana Ice.
The anchors are approximately 20-30 feet below the trees above the clearing, so you will have to rappel down and look for them in the snow.
Classic Climbing Routes at Scottish Cliffs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season