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Routes in Breakheart Ledge

Elevation: 296 ft
GPS: 41.608, -71.699 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 734 total · 30/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Jan 4, 2016
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.
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Description

This small ledge offers some short but nice looking moderate roped climbing and good bouldering opportunities. The taller portions of the craglet run a little over 25' tall with the option for short leads or TRing from the trees up top. The bouldering is just starting to be developed (mostly on the left side so far), but some of it is very good.

The rock is featured granite with interesting quartz formations. The approach is only about 10 minutes walk, but off trail enough that you are away from other visitors. The ledge faces SE.

Getting There

From the old white church (no steeple) take the dirt Frosty Hollow rd north off rt 165 all the way until it comes to a T and cross straight into a small parking lot. From the lot don't go up the gated rd, but walk up the smaller one that heads off to the right. In a few minutes this will drop you into another dirt rd (Newman Trail). Take a right and in a couple minutes a mountain bike trail will head off to the left. Take this and in a few hundred feet it crosses a stone wall. Follow the wall to the left and in a couple hundred yards it will bring you close to the left end of the ledge.
Alternatively, if the lot is full or it is too rough for your car, you can take a right at the T and park at Breakheart Pond then walk north along the west side of the pond to meet up with Newman Trail on the other side. Take a left then look for the bike path on your right in a minute or two. I think it is slightly longer this way.

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Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Glad you are getting out there. The area needs some love. Be careful, I pulled a 50lb block off one of the routes on the right end. Jan 5, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Brian mentioned this area recently so I checked it out and was pleasantly surprised. I have started to develop the bouldering some, mostly on the left side so far, where there is a shorter vertical wall with easier routes and traverses and a nice taller overhung section. It looks like there is plenty more. Some of the potential lines blur from highball into solo territory with nasty landings so be sensible about using a rope, particularly since it hasn't seen much traffic on a lot of it.

I haven't climbed the roped routes yet beyond bouldering partially up, but Brian describes them in his website climbri.org/breakheart.htm
Thanks Brian. Jan 4, 2016

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