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Routes in The New Zoo

BabaBooey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Barrel Full of Monkeys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gunner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hippopotomoose S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Honey Badger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Irony of a Twisted Fate S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Peyote Pup, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sendex 147 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidewinder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sparkling Jackass S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Speedy Gonzalez S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Elevation: 1,031 ft
GPS: 37.735, -83.662 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,400 total · 121/month
Shared By: Will Wright on Sep 22, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

Description

Hike as for the Zoo but split right upon reaching the arch. The New Zoo will be the obvious large wall on the left side of this trail, maybe 100 yards ahead. The first route encountered is the great arete climb, Sidewinder.

Many of the routes here are characterized by thin boulder problems down low, followed by easier crimping on iron up top.

Getting There

From the parking area, hike west/southwest towards the river. Apparently there used to be a log crossing over this river but that no longer exists. Take your shoes off, ford the river and find the climber's trail on the other side. Scramble up a very steep, rooty section of trail just right of a side drainage/ravine and continue steeply uphill for another five minutes.
When you reach a small arch at the top of the trail go to the right (do not pass through the arch or go around it to the left). The New Zoo will be the first routes you encounter after going right at the arch. The New Zoo area begins with the route Sidewinder (5.12b).

If you continue along the wall beyond the The New Zoo, down the hill and down around the cave area, you get to a newer area called the Bird Cage Sector. The Bird Cage Sector begins with the route Sons of Perdition (5.12a).

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The New Zoo

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Barrel Full of Monkeys
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hippopotomoose
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sparkling Jackass
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Barrel Full of Monkeys 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hippopotomoose 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Sparkling Jackass 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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