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Routes in Crag in the Woods

Duke Nugget T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over So Soon S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pleasant Surprise T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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GPS: 39.254, -105.227 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 519 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Jul 29, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This is an all right rock, but there are better rocks in the area. It only has a few routes on it. The rock faces west and gets morning shade and afternoon sun. You probably won't see other people here. It is fairly secluded and not the easiest to get to. The rock is decent granite.

The approach could be as fast as 15 minutes. It took me almost an hour as I messed up the approach trying to follow the book directions. The routes here can be toproped if you belay from the top. You can't see the rock for most of the approach.

Getting There

Follow the directions to Murphy's Dome.

You park on the right after going 8.9 miles from Foxton Road. You walk back up the road for 0.2 miles before finding a place to cross over or duck under a barbed wire fence. I think the best approach is to follow the hogback until you see Murphy's Dome. Then head right into the obvious ravine that has a small stream in it. Jason Haas says in his guidebook to stay in the ravine from the beginning. I don't think this works as well. You go up the ravine until you come to another drainage coming down from the right (east). You then stay to the left of this drainage which leads you to the rock. Don't stay in the first drainage and go to the north. There is another big rock ahead, but it is the wrong one. It will take about 15 minutes if you find the exact right way to the rock. It is not easy to find the correct route.

3 Total Climbs

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