Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 2,209 ft 673 m
GPS: 48.57919, -120.36653
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,490 total · 328/month
Shared By: Zachary Winters on Jul 26, 2015 · Updates
Admins: applewood, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan
Warning Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Temporary closure May 5&6 2019 (Sunday, Monday) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This cragging area has about 60 routes from 5.6 to 5.11. It consists of several sub-areas, and the routes are mostly closely bolted sport lines with a couple trad lines. All have bolted anchors.

Climbing here is great for avoiding crowds at Fun Rock and Prime Rib, and is best for shoulder season climbing or summer days that aren't too hot.

A guidebook supplement with route specifics, photos, and grades can be obtained from the good folks at the Goat's Beard in Mazama.

The sub-areas, from left to right, are The Mezzanine, Perfecto Pillar, Deja Vu, The Spearhead, and Crackstar Lounge. Further down and to the right are Doorstep and Sweet Spot. The approach trail brings one up below the right side of the crag near Spearhead and Crackstar Lounge.

Getting There Suggest change

After stuffing down some pastries at the Mazama Store and grabbing your beta at the Goat's Beard, head SE from the 3-way intersection for 5 min (1.9 miles), turn left on Forest Service road #52, and in a few hundred feet park at the Goat Creek Snopark.

The trail takes off from the S side of the parking area. Approach time is about 10 minutes.

Appreciate the new trail that was recently built by local climbers and the Forest Service by staying on the trail and not cutting switchbacks please.

Have fun!

40 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Matrix Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Matrix

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Route C
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Route D
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
B
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Route G
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
A
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Route B
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
C
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
D
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
C
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
Route F
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 26
Route K Split line
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
A. Tanner
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 4
E
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 25
Controlled Burn
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Climate First
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Route C Sweet Spot
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Route D Sweet Spot
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
B Spearhead Base
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Route G Sweet Spot
 10
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
A Spearhead Left Side
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Route B Sweet Spot
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
C Spearhead Left Side
 19
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
D Spearhead Left Side
 10
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
C Deja Vu
 14
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Route F Sweet Spot
 25
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Route K Split line Sweet Spot
 26
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
A. Tanner Deja Vu
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
E Crackstar Lounge
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Controlled Burn Deja Vu
 25
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Climate First Spearhead Left Side
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Matrix »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading