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Areas in The Matrix

Crackstar Lounge 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Deja Vu 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Spearhead Base 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Spearhead Left Side 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Sweet Spot, The 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a new cragging area recently developed by Bryan Burdo with 60 routes from 5.6 to 5.11. It consists of several sub-areas, and the routes are mostly well bolted sport lines with a couple trad lines. All have bolted anchors.

Climbing here is great for avoiding crowds at Fun Rock and Prime Rib, and is best for shoulder season climbing or summer days that aren't too hot.

A guidebook supplement with route specifics, photos, and grades can be obtained from the good folks at the Goat's Beard in Mazama.

The sub-areas, from left to right, are The Mezzanine, Perfecto Pillar, Deja Vu, The Spearhead, and Crackstar Lounge. Further down and to the right are Doorstep and Sweet Spot. The approach trail brings one up below the right side of the crag near Spearhead and Crackstar Lounge.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

After stuffing down some pastries at the Mazama Store and grabbing your beta at the Goat's Beard, head SE from the 3-way intersection for 5 min (1.9 miles), turn left on Forest Service road #52, and in a few hundred feet park at the Goat Creek Snopark.

The trail takes off from the S side of the parking area. Approach time is about 10 minutes.

Appreciate the new trail that was recently built by local climbers and the Forest Service by staying on the trail and not cutting switchbacks please.

Have fun!

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Matrix

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
A
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
C
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
D
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
A Spearhead Left Side
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
C Spearhead Left Side
 7
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
D Spearhead Left Side
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Matrix »

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Photos

Kyle Elliott
Everett, WA
Kyle Elliott   Everett, WA
Great new addition to Mazama. Had the entire area to myself and partner on labor day weekend while the Fun Rock parking lot was full. Lots of loose stuff here at the moment, so climb on the conservative side, took a few exciting whippers from broken holds.

we climbed 7 routes here. "The sweet spot" had the highest quality lines IMO. Sep 8, 2015
Z Winters
Mazama, WA
Z Winters   Mazama, WA
Update: Temp closure has been lifted and local expert has confirmed that snakes have dispersed. Sure, keep an eye out, but don't let snakes dissuade you from checking out this neat crag. Have fun!

After many rattlesnake sightings, FS biologists surveyed the area and posted the this short-term closure. The area of concern is located at the base of the routes at the "Mezzanine" which is left of "Perfecto Pillar". The estimated number of snakes is a bit startling, but they are mostly near this area and are expected to disperse within the next few weeks. Areas like the "Sweet Spot" are furthest from this area.
Apr 25, 2016

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