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Routes in Spearhead Left Side

A S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
D T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 149 total, 8/month
Shared By: RodrigoB on May 30, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Climb up a block and crack that constricts as you climb. It traverses right to meet with the anchors of the climb a few feet to the left. A nice, short gear climb with good protection.

Location

The short gear climb that starts on a block a few feet to the right of the bolted off-width.

Protection

Everything up to and including a #5 C4 could be placed but a small rack up to 3" is sufficient. The top portion protects with a variety of finger-sized pro while the bottom will take a variety of hand- to fist-sized cams.

Photos

Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
I didn't have a rack, so I just did this a TR after leading the off width (big swing potential, not recommended if near your limit). I found some choss in a hand jamming section and one flake of questionable quality. There is definitely solid gear throughout though, just check it before you place a cam. Interesting route, fun mix of jamming and face moves, really gets interesting as you step out left at the top. Aug 8, 2016