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Routes in Spearhead Left Side

A S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
D T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 45 ft, Grade V
FA: Bryan Burdo
Page Views: 127 total, 7/month
Shared By: Brock B. on May 2, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

A fun off-width. Save some energy for clipping the chains.

Arm bars recommended!

Location

The obvious off-width crack, between routes A and D.

Protection

4 bolts and chain anchors.

Photos

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Kyle Elliott
Everett, WA
 
Kyle Elliott   Everett, WA
 
Beta for shorter people:

if you have long arms, or are tall, you can clip the anchors once you are roughly waist level with the last bolt. my climbing partner is 5'4" and used a right kneebar, and a left sidepull out far left to situate himself just under the anchors. then he could comfortably clip wit his right hand.

He also said it doesn't add to the difficulty, just awkward. Jul 28, 2017
Scott Brown
Bellingham
 
Scott Brown   Bellingham
 
This route was a ton of fun and a rarity for the Mazama area! Very happy to find this! a good exercise in wide OW technique! plenty of possible chicken wings, arm bars, and heel toes! Jun 18, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
I tried leading it jamming, pretty tricky getting out of the offwidth and out left to clip the chains if you're not tall. More people need to jam this thing, the left face has great features for feet, but they are still pretty dirty. You're not falling out of an offwidth though, so just blow that lichen away! Aug 8, 2016
RodrigoB
  5.9
RodrigoB  
  5.9
This climb is easier if climbed as a face climb/lieback. Off-width encouraged. Either way it is fun. May 30, 2016